OT Plywood question

[Cebu_4_2]

Okay this might sound stupid but when did they stop making 1/2" plywood and OSB?

Redoing an area of flooring in my house and was making a list when I noticed Home Depot site showing only 1 sheet of OSB 50 miles away. So I go to the Lowes site, same thing but not even 1 sheet. So fuck this shit I go down to the store and nope nodda except the real expensive stuff. I go to the counter to place the order when the guy told me that 15/32 "Is" 1/2". I mean sure it's close but in replacing a section here and there that is thinner is all jacked up to me. Not any options around me besides big box stores.

WTF?

[hoarder]

They decided to cheat us out of 1/32" quite a few years ago. Hidden inflation. Also they have cheated us on the plies. 1/2" was 5 ply until 1994. Now it's down to 3 and looks like shop grade. Any plywood is still better than OSB/Waferwood/chipboard crap.
I still walk up to the lumber counter and ask for 1/2" CDX and without a word they give me 15/32".
Nobody uses 1/2" plywood on floors, not even mobile homes.

[Cebu_4_2]

I haven't bought plywood in a long time so it really blew my mind. I managed to get 4 ply and it's delaminated on 2 and 3 sides of the 2 sheets I ordered. The osb I got seems pretty good 'Legacy' 41499 at Homedepot. Degassing outside now, thinking of spacing them apart for a while.

Currently we have particle board on 1/4th of the house and the back door was left open for years letting the elements in and rotted the floor, joists and sill plate between the deck and house (19K foreclosure). No clue how difficult that plate will be to replace, right now tearing the deck down to get in there.

[midnight rambler]

OSB board is vastly improved over what it was like 20+ years ago. It used to be total crap which took nominal moisture exposure to cause it to crater, it’s now much more resistant to moisture, comparable to CDX plywood.

[woodman]

OSB board is vastly improved over what it was like 20+ years ago. It used to be total crap which took nominal moisture exposure to cause it to crater, it’s now much more resistant to moisture, comparable to CDX plywood.
This is true in my experience. I still do not fully trust OSB and it is nowhere near as strong as plywood. I actually did a couple of gym floors where the architect and mill spec'd OSB for the subfloor. It is really easy to work with because it has zero warping compared to the shitty plywood they are making now days (yes, Hoarder is correct). If I were patching a subfloor, I would not hesitate to use 3/4" OSB, but plywood is way stronger.

[hoarder]

This is true in my experience. I still do not fully trust OSB and it is nowhere near as strong as plywood. I actually did a couple of gym floors where the architect and mill spec'd OSB for the subfloor. It is really easy to work with because it has zero warping compared to the shitty plywood they are making now days (yes, Hoarder is correct). If I were patching a subfloor, I would not hesitate to use 3/4" OSB, but plywood is way stronger.What about the swelling when wet aspect of OSB? Has that gotten much better? Looking at all the roofs on spec homes that were decked with OSB a few years ago, now you can see exactly where the trusses are.

[Cebu_4_2]

I think I should picture this stuff but haven't linked my phone to the forum. Could probably use some tips and tricks cause besides building new stuff I never dealt with old rot that I had to fix.

Ahhh! I forgot to mention the rot thing, this place was infested with carpenter ants big time, especially where I am working. Nothing helped until I fogged behind boards and stuff on the outside with regular mosquito stuff. Poof they disappeared in 2 days, not a single ant since and been like 5 years.

[Cebu_4_2]

The crap I got says guaranteed til covered or something like that, the Lowes one that's 36 a piece says for 500 days. (I thing or 300 days) whatever seems to be pretty waxy in material to stay flat.

[woodman]

What about the swelling when wet aspect of OSB? Has that gotten much better? Looking at all the roofs on spec homes that were decked with OSB a few years ago, now you can see exactly where the trusses are.
It doubt it's gotten better in that respect so I would still not trust it. I think for a patch it would be ok. I remember years ago when framing houses in the winter or in rainy weather, the OSB did warp and sag a bit when soaked. I would not use it myself anywhere I thought water might get to it. I used it on the second floor of my shop and it really does not feel as solid as ply. It is a lot cheaper though and if you don't need ply you can save a lot of cash.

[midnight rambler]

What about the swelling when wet aspect of OSB? Has that gotten much better? Looking at all the roofs on spec homes that were decked with OSB a few years ago, now you can see exactly where the trusses are.

I don’t see recently manufactured (in past 15 years or so) OSB swelling and sagging like the OSB board manufactured 30+ years ago. Virtually all construction around here now with few exceptions uses OSB board instead of plywood including the most expensive custom homes. Regardless whether OSB or plywood both are going to rot when exposed to prolonged moisture. Based on what I see OSB and plywood perform essentially the same under identical circumstances.

Still not a huge fan of OSB but it’s now more or less equivalent to the lower quality plywood.

[woodman]

I think I should picture this stuff but haven't linked my phone to the forum. Could probably use some tips and tricks cause besides building new stuff I never dealt with old rot that I had to fix.

Ahhh! I forgot to mention the rot thing, this place was infested with carpenter ants big time, especially where I am working. Nothing helped until I fogged behind boards and stuff on the outside with regular mosquito stuff. Poof they disappeared in 2 days, not a single ant since and been like 5 years.
Those damn carpenter ants can really do some damage. They got into a pile of plywood that I had stacked outside under plastic and really went to town on it. I had a bunch of hardwood stored in a neat stack outside for a few years and the post hole beetles got into it big time. You just can't store stuff outside, it will go to hell.

[woodman]

I don’t see recently manufactured (in past 15 years or so) OSB swelling and sagging like the OSB board manufactured 30+ years ago. Virtually all construction around here now with few exceptions uses OSB board instead of plywood including the most expensive custom homes. Regardless whether OSB or plywood both are going to rot when exposed to prolonged moisture. Based on what I see OSB and plywood perform essentially the same under identical circumstances.

Still not a huge fan of OSB but it’s now more or less equivalent to the lower quality plywood.

I wonder if they are still using popple/poplar in OSB. Popple rots fast when wet. It is actually nice wood, just not for a wet location.

[Cebu_4_2]

I wonder if they are still using popple/poplar in OSB. Popple rots fast when wet. It is actually nice wood, just not for a wet location.


Did a bunch of research on this. Current home is mostly OSB on top of 1/2 plywood. The OSB is exposed with no carpet or cover, I'm a low life with no money. The OSB from.. let me look at the stamp on it... Dated Jan 2008. This stuff is great for exposed flooring. The living room and kitchen area were particle board. Kitchen doesn't work well with the particle board shit which is the issue especially since the back door to the deck was open for many years. Water, particle board and ants love the environment. Just trying to redo the kitchen rot area and top it with OSB. The OSBI chose is rated at least 300 days exposed so that seems to be pretty good to me. Considering brand new plywood gets delivered already delaminated. Idonno guys, working with my gut and no experience on this one. I tried to link my phone so hopefully you have something to look at tomorrow.

[woodman]

Did a bunch of research on this. Current home is mostly OSB on top of 1/2 plywood. The OSB is exposed with no carpet or cover, I'm a low life with no money. The OSB from.. let me look at the stamp on it... Dated Jan 2008. This stuff is great for exposed flooring. The living room and kitchen area were particle board. Kitchen doesn't work well with the particle board shit which is the issue especially since the back door to the deck was open for many years. Water, particle board and ants love the environment. Just trying to redo the kitchen rot area and top it with OSB. The OSBI chose is rated at least 300 days exposed so that seems to be pretty good to me. Considering brand new plywood gets delivered already delaminated. Idonno guys, working with my gut and no experience on this one. I tried to link my phone so hopefully you have something to look at tomorrow.
No worries my friend. You can use the OSB just as long as you seal it well. I trowel filled and sanded the OSB in my shop/man cave upstairs and used a quality paint on it. I painted a large diamond pattern that looks just like tile and with a little polyurethane over it, does an outstanding job. It has stood up to many beer spills and still looks great. I imagine that you would not even have to sand or fill it, just as long as you seal it well. Depends on how picky you are for looks.

[Cebu_4_2]

No worries my friend. You can use the OSB just as long as you seal it well. I trowel filled and sanded the OSB in my shop/man cave upstairs and used a quality paint on it. I painted a large diamond pattern that looks just like tile and with a little polyurethane over it, does an outstanding job. It has stood up to many beer spills and still looks great. I imagine that you would not even have to sand or fill it, just as long as you seal it well. Depends on how picky you are for looks.

Goal is fake flooring But 2400 feet is not possible now. Hope 1/4 that will suffice.

[ziero0]

You can use the OSB just as long as you seal it well.

WWI (phase deuce) PT boats were made of plywood. Wonder what the equivalent made of OSB would look like.

[woodman]

WWI (phase deuce) PT boats were made of plywood. Wonder what the equivalent made of OSB would look like.
I remember reading about an enormous marine plane developed by Howard Hughes that was made of plywood; The H-4 Hecules, also known as the Spruce Goose. I guess with the proper resin/binder, anything is possible.

[woodman]

WWI (phase deuce) PT boats were made of plywood. Wonder what the equivalent made of OSB would look like.
OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is perhaps in its infancy. Think of the possibilities that would come about with newer technologies. If you could actually weave the wood together, like in some of those resin covered salad bowls, the strength would be amazing.

[ziero0]

I remember reading about an enormous marine plane developed by Howard Hughes that was made of plywood

Perhaps when NASA selects OSB for their next space shuttle?

[hoarder]

OSB relies on compression of the fibers to form it's shape. Compressed wood is more likely to expand when wet. Plywood is compressed too, mainly to bond the glues, but not much beyond it's original dimension.

[woodman]

Perhaps when NASA selects OSB for their next space shuttle?
Yeah, maybe we could get back to the moon again with the power of OSB!

[keehah]

Nice thread. Move to Japan? I used to millwright and the planed 2x4's (and wider) were of course much smaller, except for the 'metric' sized wood being exported to Japan that was almost a full dried and planed 2x4 inches.

Also noticed a few years ago that all the 1/2 drywall sold in my area became the equivalent of whipped butter when previously it was solid. The material dents and breaks easily and when I suggested to the sales people it probably offers a lot less fire resistance, they said that is what 5/8 is for, like 1/2" applications never need be concerned about fire.

[midnight rambler]

WWI (phase deuce) PT boats were made of plywood. Wonder what the equivalent made of OSB would look like.

That was a sort of (marine) plywood not made anymore.

[midnight rambler]

OSB relies on compression of the fibers to form it's shape. Compressed wood is more likely to expand when wet. Plywood is compressed too, mainly to bond the glues, but not much beyond it's original dimension.

Based on my own observations manufacturers of sheet goods have steadily been improving their processes especially with respect to their glues. I’ve seen CDX (which is of course exterior grade and supposedly resistant to moisture) that had fully delaminated at about 25 years in place (installed in late ‘60s and involved 100% failure of ~4,000 s.f.). It should not have failed like that in that particular situation - we expected to see a nominal amount of failure not a full 100%.

[hoarder]

Based on my own observations manufacturers of sheet goods have steadily been improving their processes especially with respect to their glues. I’ve seen CDX (which is of course exterior grade and supposedly resistant to moisture) that had fully delaminated at about 25 years in place (installed in late ‘60s and involved 100% failure of ~4,000 s.f.). It should not have failed like that in that particular situation - we expected to see a nominal amount of failure not a full 100%.My observation is that the manufacturers have been steadily improving their processes to enhance quarterly profits.

[midnight rambler]

My observation is that the manufacturers have been steadily improving their processes to enhance quarterly profits.

Of course there's that. Duh.

When was the last time you were actively involved in construction? (DIY projects don't count)

[hoarder]

Of course there's that. Duh.

When was the last time you were actively involved in construction? (DIY projects don't count)I just finished building another house this year. I had them sheath the inside of my insulated 1600 square foot garage with 1/2" CDX. I was very disappointed with the quality of the plywood. APA standards must have dropped considerably. It looked like "shop grade" plywood.

[woodman]

I just finished building another house this year. I had them sheath the inside of my insulated 1600 square foot garage with 1/2" CDX. I was very disappointed with the quality of the plywood. APA standards must have dropped considerably. It looked like "shop grade" plywood.
This is true. I've noticed a drop in plywood quality over the last 7 years. I have been retired since last year but still do odd jobs. The actual size of the sheets has been off for the last 4 years at least. I would make a big difference when a sheet was an eighth inch smaller, say 47 7/8" instead of 48" when lining up plywood on a subfloor. The thickness can vary quite a bit also. Much of the 15/32 was often more like 3/8 and we would try to use it by a wall, under the bleachers, etc. This product was coming in big orders, often over a thousand sheets from Home Depot. We figured they were having a hard time getting good help, large employee turnover or something.

[Cebu_4_2]

This is true. I've noticed a drop in plywood quality over the last 7 years. I have been retired since last year but still do odd jobs. The actual size of the sheets has been off for the last 4 years at least. I would make a big difference when a sheet was an eighth inch smaller, say 47 7/8" instead of 48" when lining up plywood on a subfloor. The thickness can vary quite a bit also. Much of the 15/32 was often more like 3/8 and we would try to use it by a wall, under the bleachers, etc. This product was coming in big orders, often over a thousand sheets from Home Depot. We figured they were having a hard time getting good help, large employee turnover or something.

Funny shit reading the reviews on about everything I ordered. The flooring OSB requires 1/8 spacing for expansion and contraction. WTF I'm not building a fucking boat! Might be the waxy shit the use to make it? I don't know. The shit's out side spaced to degass right now.

Pulled the rest of the deck off. Wow. They had some sort of water protection sheet that did not work at all, total fail. I wish I could get pics here cause you would love it. The rot is beyond rot, No Idea how I am going to get a new sill plate in here, and 12 foot long ain't gonna do the job lol. More likely I need another 4 foot to finish this area.. Going to beat up my phone tomorrow cause my camera died also, this needs to be pictured for sure.

[woodman]

Funny shit reading the reviews on about everything I ordered. The flooring OSB requires 1/8 spacing for expansion and contraction. WTF I'm not building a fucking boat! Might be the waxy shit the use to make it? I don't know. The shit's out side spaced to degass right now.

Pulled the rest of the deck off. Wow. They had some sort of water protection sheet that did not work at all, total fail. I wish I could get pics here cause you would love it. The rot is beyond rot, No Idea how I am going to get a new sill plate in here, and 12 foot long ain't gonna do the job lol. More likely I need another 4 foot to finish this area.. Going to beat up my phone tomorrow cause my camera died also, this needs to be pictured for sure.
I am assuming a crawl space. You will need a couple bottle jacks and blocks on each end of a temporary beam to keep the joists up while you replace the sill plate. If it is that bad, you may need to replace the rim joist and sister some scabs on the joist ends. A project for sure but doable.

[woodman]

Funny shit reading the reviews on about everything I ordered. The flooring OSB requires 1/8 spacing for expansion and contraction. WTF I'm not building a fucking boat! Might be the waxy shit the use to make it? I don't know. The shit's out side spaced to degass right now.

Pulled the rest of the deck off. Wow. They had some sort of water protection sheet that did not work at all, total fail. I wish I could get pics here cause you would love it. The rot is beyond rot, No Idea how I am going to get a new sill plate in here, and 12 foot long ain't gonna do the job lol. More likely I need another 4 foot to finish this area.. Going to beat up my phone tomorrow cause my camera died also, this needs to be pictured for sure.
You should see the shit I am dealing with right now. I bought a property across the street from me. It finally went up for sale and after 15 years of putting up with barking dogs, rap music, drug traffic and burning garbage, I figured I would buy it before some one else did. Well those mobile homes are complete junk. They use the press board on all the floors and the stuff turns to shit as soon as it gets wet. I am trying to get one of the mobiles ready for a renter and it is a project for sure. I will be patching the roof today if the weather allows.

[hoarder]

This is true. I've noticed a drop in plywood quality over the last 7 years. I have been retired since last year but still do odd jobs. The actual size of the sheets has been off for the last 4 years at least. I would make a big difference when a sheet was an eighth inch smaller, say 47 7/8" instead of 48" when lining up plywood on a subfloor. The thickness can vary quite a bit also. Much of the 15/32 was often more like 3/8 and we would try to use it by a wall, under the bleachers, etc. This product was coming in big orders, often over a thousand sheets from Home Depot. We figured they were having a hard time getting good help, large employee turnover or something.I had the carpenters put 5/8" CDX (whatever they call it now) on the roof so there would be a little more "meat" for the metal roof screws to get a hold of. I noticed the 5/8' was much better quality than the 1/2". Most people put 7/16 OSB under metal and if a screw backs out (as they sometimes do from expansion/contraction of the sheet metal)and that spot swells.

[Cebu_4_2]

I am assuming a crawl space. You will need a couple bottle jacks and blocks on each end of a temporary beam to keep the joists up while you replace the sill plate. If it is that bad, you may need to replace the rim joist and sister some scabs on the joist ends. A project for sure but doable.

Finished basement syndrome. I can get to a lot of it except where the stairs are in the corner. Basement is block so the sill sits on that.

[midnight rambler]

if a screw backs out

The fasteners migrate back out because cheapskates use #8 screws. #14 screws don't migrate back out. And screw down sheet metal panels over wood are strictly for ag and storage type buildings anyway (which can be open 1x4 lathe), standing seam with unexposed fasteners is what should be going onto houses.

[hoarder]

The fasteners migrate back out because cheapskates use #8 screws. #14 screws don't migrate back out. And screw down sheet metal panels over wood are strictly for ag and storage type buildings anyway (which can be open 1x4 lathe), standing seam with unexposed fasteners is what should be going onto houses.

Screwmetal roofs are the most common roofs in my area. No doubt standing seam is better, but very few are rich enough to pay 3 times as much to not have screws. Any time you have roofing screws going in wood, that will be the eventual failure point, as well as the rubber washer. Commercial building usually have them screwed into zees, which lasts longer. Some people use the small screws in wood, then 20 years later, as the washers begin to fail, pull them out and replace them with the wide flange screws.

[midnight rambler]

Screwmetal roofs are the most common roofs in my area. No doubt standing seam is better, but very few are rich enough to pay 3 times as much to not have screws. Any time you have roofing screws going in wood, that will be the eventual failure point, as well as the rubber washer. Commercial building usually have them screwed into zees, which lasts longer. Some people use the small screws in wood, then 20 years later, as the washers begin to fail, pull them out and replace them with the wide flange screws.

Even on the #8 screws the washers don't fail (to the point of causing rotten wood) until 25-30 years so long as they don't migrate out. #14 screws will have the washers last in excess of 30 years when screwed into wood at the appropriate torque. The failure of #8 weatherguard style screws is strictly due to migrating back out as a result of live load and thermal expansion/contraction THEN "the washers fail." In actuality the washers don't really fail nearly as much as the screws migrate out, the most common cause of a fastener leaking is the result of the fastener backing out - if not a result of a poor installation job where the fastener was not seated square to the panel, which can fail on either a wood or metal substrate in such a case. Pre-engineered sheet metal buildings have a metal substrate in the form of a C purlin or Z purlin framing. Fasteners screwed into metal never back out with only the very rare exception. Washer failure on fasteners on pre-engineered buildings are extremely rare except at the eave strut. Most PE sheet metal buildings have a higher elevation at the eave strut likely from the placement of the batt insulation which results in there being a very small deflected area in the panel precisely where the fasteners attach to the eave strut. This small deflected area results in a small pond from the slightest drizzle since all the water on the roof ends up at the eave. There's a very simple solution to that: replace the fastener with the appropriate fastener, preferably the 'long life' fastener for PE sheet metal roofs. Even on wood substrate the fasteners fail at the eave far more than any other area because that's where all the water ends up. On metal substrate (PE buildings) it generally isn't a fastener failure causing leaks, it's something else like headlaps or penetrations.

[Cebu_4_2]

Hmm, not only can I not figure out how to get pics from my android phone to my PC but to attach them they have to be 'hosted' somewhere.

Fucking ghey.

[Cebu_4_2]

Wont display so linky to gallery: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mgbnywse/

Unable to jack anything up from the window to the left (possible half way in the window), all joists cut out for stairs so that's going to have to stay. The rest should be jackable from inside with little issue. Not sure how bad the joists are at the end. A lot more rot than I thought, sills and end joist plus possible joist ends themselves.

Way above my pay scale but with little working capital I can get a 12 ton bottle jack and some 4x4s. How do I pull as much of the sill and end joist if I can't jack up the whole thing? Not worried about cracking drywall lol, that's pretty jacked already just wondering how high it should have to go to accomplish anything significant. I really doubt there are any type of anchor bolts so possibly just cut and slide the sill out.

Edit: Better wording I guess, How to I keep the whole area jacked up? Jack a few joists at a time and shove a 4x4 from the floor under the 4x4 holding the house up? Buy a bunch of bottle jacks? Just found 3 stantions that I can de-rust and maybe make functional. Watched some videos but not real similar to what I am dealing with here.

measuring from the inside in some areas it seems like the end joist is doubled up and in others it's all a f*cking hack job that makes little sense. I'm done guessing what went through some backwards ass country f*cks mind when building / repairing stuff around here. My 24x24 garage has a stantion holding the rafters up smack dab in the middle of the door so you can't even pull a car in there. Cant remove that thing at all lol. That's where all the short pieces come together. Same with the attic in this house but they built walls to hold the loose ends up. Crazy shit for sure.

[woodman]

Wont display so linky to gallery: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mgbnywse/

Unable to jack anything up from the window to the left (possible half way in the window), all joists cut out for stairs so that's going to have to stay. The rest should be jackable from inside with little issue. Not sure how bad the joists are at the end. A lot more rot than I thought, sills and end joist plus possible joist ends themselves.

Way above my pay scale but with little working capital I can get a 12 ton bottle jack and some 4x4s. How do I pull as much of the sill and end joist if I can't jack up the whole thing? Not worried about cracking drywall lol, that's pretty jacked already just wondering how high it should have to go to accomplish anything significant. I really doubt there are any type of anchor bolts so possibly just cut and slide the sill out.

Edit: Better wording I guess, How to I keep the whole area jacked up? Jack a few joists at a time and shove a 4x4 from the floor under the 4x4 holding the house up? Buy a bunch of bottle jacks? Just found 3 stantions that I can de-rust and maybe make functional. Watched some videos but not real similar to what I am dealing with here.

measuring from the inside in some areas it seems like the end joist is doubled up and in others it's all a f*cking hack job that makes little sense. I'm done guessing what went through some backwards ass country f*cks mind when building / repairing stuff around here. My 24x24 garage has a stantion holding the rafters up smack dab in the middle of the door so you can't even pull a car in there. Cant remove that thing at all lol. That's where all the short pieces come together. Same with the attic in this house but they built walls to hold the loose ends up. Crazy shit for sure.
You can do this Cebu. Get a couple of stantionjacks and a laminated beam or screw together some 2 x 12's. What is the length of the rotted area? If it is less than 10 feet then a couple of stantions should do it. If more then you will need a third. Get a helper and screw the beam to the underside of the joists, then jack everything up slowly. Slowly! I am assuming there is some sag present. Cut that sill plate out and make sure the rim joist is removed also, as far as that rot and termite damage extends.

[Cebu_4_2]

You can do this Cebu. Get a couple of stantionjacks and a laminated beam or screw together some 2 x 12's. What is the length of the rotted area? If it is less than 10 feet then a couple of stantions should do it. If more then you will need a third. Get a helper and screw the beam to the underside of the joists, then jack everything up slowly. Slowly! I am assuming there is some sag present. Cut that sill plate out and make sure the rim joist is removed also, as far as that rot and termite damage extends.

Thanks very much. Going to get a bottle jack and hopefully a couple 4x4s and see what damage I can do. Got birds flying in now almost everyday. Will concentrate on working the stantions free for support after the jack. Absolutely no children will be inside the house during this lol.

Whoa wait! 2x12s? Rotted area at least 16-18 feet but cant lift it all. Maybe 12-14 foot of the rotted area can be lifted. I can go farther on the non rotted stuff but not sure if mandatory. Wont 2x12s be wobbly if jacked up even screwed? Don't want no crashing down. Thanks for your patience on my lack of knowledge.

[woodman]

Thanks very much. Going to get a bottle jack and hopefully a couple 4x4s and see what damage I can do. Got birds flying in now almost everyday. Will concentrate on working the stantions free for support after the jack. Absolutely no children will be inside the house during this lol.

Whoa wait! 2x12s? Rotted area at least 16-18 feet but cant lift it all. Maybe 12-14 foot of the rotted area can be lifted. I can go farther on the non rotted stuff but not sure if mandatory. Wont 2x12s be wobbly if jacked up even screwed? Don't want no crashing down. Thanks for your patience on my lack of knowledge.
Probably just tackle it in two sections. You only need to lift/support half the length at a time. Then tackle the other half. Wish I could be there to help out. If the outside wall has dropped at all, then you are dealing with more. It is really hard to give advice without seeing it directly. You may have to tackle it one joist at a time and rebuild the sill plate and rim joist in smaller sections?

[woodman]

Whoa wait! 2x12s? Rotted area at least 16-18 feet but cant lift it all. Maybe 12-14 foot of the rotted area can be lifted. I can go farther on the non rotted stuff but not sure if mandatory. Wont 2x12s be wobbly if jacked up even screwed? Don't want no crashing down.

This is why you must fasten the temporary beam to the bottom of the joists, you don't want anything kicking out when pressure is on it. You can get killed easy. Maybe you can find a local contractor to assess the situation. Like I said, I wish I could see it in person. There are many things that come into play depending on how bad the damage is. Have you taken a line to the wall to see if it has sagged? It probably has, so you will have to take that into consideration. On a gable wall, the roof load will not be present but on the side walls you have the roof weight. The more I think about it, the more I think I could be giving you bad advice with the temporary beam being used as a lifting method.

I would get a local contractor to look at it first because lifting those joists with rotting ends will not work to raise the outer wall where it needs to be. ? I dunno. One thing I do know is that in remodeling or fix-up projects, you usually have to correct much more than what you initially think needs to be done. It is a rare case when it is just a straight forward fix.

[Cebu_4_2]

I would get a local contractor to look at it first because lifting those joists with rotting ends will not work to raise the outer wall where it needs to be. ? I dunno. One thing I do know is that in remodeling or fix-up projects, you usually have to correct much more than what you initially think needs to be done. It is a rare case when it is just a straight forward fix.

Yes getting deeper the more I look at it. Raining today so I'll just see what I can do with the stantions. Later or tomorrow going to see what harbor freight has in bottle jacks and look at what I have on hand for support beams. 4x4 may do it in small sections but will have to play with it to make sure.

[Cebu_4_2]

More pics:

https://postimg.cc/gallery/2eu46cz86/