EM Bokashi.

[Serpo]

The key to the success of this system is the specifically designed Bokashi Bucket, and the use of EM Bokashi.

Bokashi is a Japanese term that means “fermented organic matter. EM Bokashi is a pleasant smelling product made using a combination of sawdust and bran that has been infused with Effective Micro-organisms (EM). EM Bokashi has traditionally been used to increase the microbial diversity and activity in soils and to supply nutrients to plants.

* Place your kitchen waste into the bucket, then sprinkle a hand full of EM Bokashi over the waste.
* Repeat this layering process until the Bokashi Bucket is full.
* Drain off liquid (Bokashi juice) as necessary.

Once the bucket is full to capacity, the waste can be buried. If you have two Bokashi Buckets, begin the process again in your second bucket. Let the waste from the first Bokashi Bucket continue to ferment for 10-14 days or for any additional length of time. Then, bury the waste and wash out Bokashi Bucket ready to use when your second Bokashi Bucket is full. If you have only one Bokashi Bucket the waste can be buried as soon as it is full, obviously the waste on the top has not had much or any chance to ferment, even so, the waste will still break down quickly because of the micro-organisms mixed in.

With two Bokashi Buckets the waste gets extra time to ferment, you will get more of the valuable Bokashi Juice and it is more convenient, however, this wonderful composting system will still work with just one Bokashi Bucket.

Bokashi Compost will look different to other compost that has decayed. As the food waste does not breakdown or decompose while it is in the bucket, much of its original physical property will remain and it will have a pickled appearance. Breakdown of waste will occur after it has been transferred to the soil.

This is what it should look like before you bury the waste.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYbqb93zpNM&feature=player_embedded



Burying Bokashi Compost in the garden will supply the plants with a nourishing food source and condition your soil with enriching microbes.

* Dig a hole, add your fermented Bokashi Compost, mix with some soil and cover.
* If you are low on garden space you can create a Bokashi Compost Heap, by burying a large bottomless bucket with lid.
* You can use your Bokashi Compost in planter boxes, tubs or pots by placing it directly into the container for further fermentation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBhPmLFpIo8&feature=player_embedded


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYhvH5btZYk&feature=player_embedded

Bokashi Juice

As the kitchen waste starts to ferment, Bokashi Juice will form in the bottom of the bucket. This should be drained off as it builds up.

* Bokashi Juice can be diluted with water and makes a terrific fertiliser for garden or pot plants.
* It can be poured down drains and it is safe to use in septic tanks.

When used in drains it will help to clean up our water ways by competing with harmful bacteria.

http://www.bokashi.com.au/How-Bokashi-works.htm

[skid]

Saw dust I can get easily, bran not so easy. Would peatmoss substitute for either or both? I've been on the lookout for EM, but the only place I found it by the pail is in Texas. Do you know how one can make it? Would using old compost supply the EM?

[skid]

Well, I'm going to try making my own type of Bokashi. Instead of bran and EM, I am going to use peat moss right from the bag. I figure there are enough micro-organisms in the vegetable/fruit waste to start the composting process.

I'm going to start with an inch of peat moss in the bottom of the compost pail, followed by an inch of kitchen waste, followed by peat moss, and so on.

Currently there is a stinky slimy mess at the bottom of the compost pail when just kitchen waste is used. The dry peat moss should soak that excess juice up.

The high carbon of the peat moss will off set the high nitrogen of the kitchen waste. Whether this will be Bokachi or not, it follows the rules of effective composting by mixing browns and greens in somewhat equal amounts.

I'll report the results in a week or two...

[beefsteak]

Serpo,

Been wondering if one should resist adding nightshade plant residue (tomato prunings, stems) to their compost material for bokashi to work on? Would you know? It is segregated at the moment as I wonder what to do with them.



Skid,
it's been a "couple weeks" since you posted you were going to experiment with peatmoss instead of bran. Would you possibly have an update? Thanks. I heard of bokashi for the first time a few weeks back from Serpo...

[Glass]

Bokashi is not a composting method, it's a fermenting process. I looked at this and while it looks good, I didn't want to have to keep buying the catalyst stuff.

Now I just chuck my scraps in a bucket. When the bottom of the bucket looks nice and juicy I dig a hole and tip it in. Only down side is that you can't really apply it topically and that means you have to be able to dig into a garden bed because it's not fully broken down. Not always possible if you have something growing there already. Then I let the worms finish off the breakdown. It's amazing to see how the extremely poor soil here improves and what you can grow in it.

Now if I could find a no cost catalyst then I'd be into it.

[beefsteak]

Thank you, Glass for your post. However, I'm not too sure how that relates to my specific concern w/r/t deadly nightshade family, aka tomato plant prunings....???

And let's agree to disagree w/r/t whether use of bokashi is considered a "composting" process, okay?


beefsteak