Gardening 101

[Phil_Schnieder]

Figured we could use a Gardening 101 thread for those with interest but with no experience as well as provide a good reference for the rest of us.
I opted to post articles I found easy to read with a good broad spectrum of information.

Please add or correct anything you wish as well as cast your own opinions or questions for others to answer.

http://www.getrichslowly.org/blog/2007/01/30/gardening-101-plan-today-for-summer-success/
Gardening 101: Plan Today for Summer Success


Raising your own berries, fruits, and vegetables is a fun and rewarding way to save money. Our grocery bills drop dramatically during harvest season, and the food cannot be beat. (I love our salsa recipe.) But my wife notes, “February is the time to start planning your vegetable garden.” This post contains her advice for starting a garden that will produce a bounty of delicious food.
http://www.getrichslowly.org/images/augustbounty.jpg

This was an actual weekend harvest from our garden last August.
At Get Rich Slowly, we get many requests for information about starting a vegetable garden. This is huge topic, and really enough fodder for an entire website. If you’re a novice gardener you will benefit by asking yourself six questions before mail-ordering seeds or heading to your local nursery. Now is the time to do your research so that you’ll be ready for planting season.

Do you actually like to eat vegetables?
If not, focus on fruits and herbs, edible and ornamental flowers, and a favorite veggie or two. A well-tended garden will produce a lot of vegetables. If you are lukewarm about zucchini then pass up that beautiful seedling. (Or go introduce yourself to your five nearest neighbors so that you can share come July).

What is your gardening space like?
This is probably the most important question for the novice gardener. If you are starting from bare dirt or, more likely, a patch of lawn, you have some work to do. The plot needs to be evaluated for sun and wind exposure, moisture/drainage, soil pH and elemental content, pests, and other factors.
http://www.foldedspace.org/images/house/veggiegarden.jpg

When we moved to the new house, J.D. used math to determine our garden location.
Crop gardens need a sunny spot. But remember that the angle of the sun in the summer months will be different than it is now. Nonetheless, try to watch over the next few weeks to determine where the sun hits your property. If I have to choose between morning sun and evening, I prefer morning sun — it is less intense, which means watering needs are decreased. Here in Portland, however, it’s hard to give a garden too much sun.

Get online and tap the resources at your local university’s extension offices. You can usually find them just by searching for your state’s name and “extension service”. Many states offer free soil testing, which will tell you how to amend the soil if nutrients or organic matter are lacking, or if the pH of the soil needs to be adjusted. Your county’s Master Gardener program may also offer this service. Each crop has an optimum pH growing range. We add acid for our blueberries and strawberries; kale and peas like a slightly alkaline soil. If your soil is close to neutral (pH 7), you can probably proceed as-is.
http://www.foldedspace.org/photos/tomatosteps.jpg

These tomatoes were started from seed in February.
In May they’re ready to be transplanted!
Even if your soil is terrible, you still have options. On a small scale, container gardening can be rewarding. A cherry tomato, well-watered, can do well in a large pot on a patio. Better yet, build some raised beds. These will require an initial investment for the soil to fill them and construction materials, but they provide better drainage, warmer soil temperatures in the spring (and thus earlier crops), and reduced weeding. (Please avoid pressure-treated lumber, though, there is some evidence that the toxic chemicals leach into the soil. Okay for a picnic table, but not for the dirt where your eggplant is growing!)

If this all seems rather intimidating, I encourage you to start small. Don’t roto-till the entire lawn under until you really decide that crop gardening is for you. If your gardening space is less than ideal but you’d like to take the plunge, perhaps one 6′x12′ foot raised bed is the perfect beginning. Or try growing herbs.
http://www.foldedspace.org/photos/gardenspace.jpg

During our second summer, we tore up sod to expand the garden space.
Herbs are one of the most forgiving classes of plants to grow — almost as easy as weeds — especially the hardy perennial herbs. Except for excessively moist soil and total shade, almost any conditions will support herbs. They thrive in sunny, dry areas. Herbs are also some of the most frugal crops you can grow because they are outrageously priced at the grocery store and can be used to make even basic ingredients into a stand-out meal. It’s worth the cost to start with herb plants rather than seeds so that you can use them right away.

Perennial herbs like sage, rosemary, thyme, lemon verbena, mints, chives and oregano require very little work. Again, do your homework for your climate. And a word to the wise: some herbs are invasive. Mints have spreading roots that will take over your entire city block. They are best in a container with a solid bottom rather than planted directly in the ground. Others, like oregano and fennel, spread easily by dropping their seeds. If you want to avoid little fennel and oregano families, be sure to trim off the flowers before they go to seed.
http://www.getrichslowly.org/images/herbgarden.jpg

Last year we added an herb garden.
Short term, long term, or both?
Plants generally fall into two categories: annuals or perennials.

Annual crops start from a seed, mature and bear fruit (or vegetable) in one season, then die. In our region, corn is an annual, as are cucumbers, watermelons, and tomatoes. Plants that can survive the winter to regrow for another crop season are typically perennials, Examples include asparagus, blueberries, artichoke, and rhubarb. This also applies to flowers, of course: sunflower (annual) versus rose (perennial). I tend to think of fruits in the perennial group: fruit trees and berries are perennials. Most vegetables (again, this is for my climate) are annuals. Obviously there are exceptions to this generalization, like the melon family.

To decide where to focus your gardening energies, you should know your climate zone. This will help you determine the length of your growing season and which annual crops are going to have time to ripen.

Perennials usually cost more than annuals initially (buying an apple tree sapling, for example), and will require patience. We planted asparagus two springs ago and are hoping for our first taste this April. But these plants are longer living, and give you bigger returns for relatively little work. Asparagus plants can live for twenty years before needing replacements; an apple tree may not bear a crop for the first five years, but may live to be one-hundred.

If you’re just getting your gardening feet muddy for the first time, I recommend annuals. Tomatoes are extremely rewarding, as are other salad fixings such as lettuce, spinach, cucumbers, radishes and carrots. Other easy crops to start with are beans, onions (or leeks/shallots), potatoes, and pumpkin (although this needs room to spread). Besides the instant gratification they provide, mistakes with annuals are easily corrected the next season without much expense. Did the birds eat all your peas? Try something next year to protect them. Has your corn crop failed? Next spring, try it in a sunnier place.
http://www.getrichslowly.org/images/freshstrawberries.jpg

Our strawberry plants have spread like crazy in the past three years.
If you have enough space and the inclination, try a bit of both annuals and perennials. A strawberry patch won’t produce much the first year, but the plants will reproduce and spread to give you a bounteous crop. Dwarf fruit trees are a nice option if you are looking for an ornamental small tree; most have beautiful blossoms, too. And don’t forget those herbs!
http://www.foldedspace.org/images/house/orchard.jpg

We planted two apples, a pear, and prune. We also have a filbert and walnut.
(We never get many filberts — our yard is home to a Kingdom of Squirrels.)
Who are your gardening neighbors?
Tap those resources. Most gardeners love to talk about their plants. You can learn a lot about what works for your area by listening to their stories of success and failure. If you do a bit of pre-planning, you could also take part in a seed co-op. A typical tomato seed packet may hold 30 seeds — more than enough to split among four gardeners. Many vegetable starts are sold as single pots, but some come in six-packs that can be easily shared. With knowledge and experience, you can even harvest seeds from local gardens (with permission, of course) to plant the following spring. And if you’re lucky, when it’s time for the woman across the street to divide her lavender bush, she’ll share half with you!

Can you control yourself?
Most seed packets run only $2-$3, so they are tempting. But spending money and wasting your time on plants that won’t do well in your garden is an exercise in summer-long frustration. Evaluate your space and the soil and sun conditions. Learn to avoid catalog phrases such as “spreads quickly” or “freely self-sows” unless that’s what you really want. Don’t trust the catalog! The pictures are tempting, but they often show the plant only at its peak — what will it look like the rest of the time? Is it invasive? Poisonous? Hard-to-grow? Will it require constant maintenance? Use the internet and your library’s garden references to research seeds and plants before you buy them. I have found the internet to be a wonderful alternative to a knowledgeable nursery employee.

Do you have the time and money to grow your own food?
Gardening, initially, isn’t cheap. Besides plants and seeds, you’ll need garden tools, fertilizers, soil amendments, watering devices and a million other small things. But for those who savor its rewards, gardening is a labor of love. With time, and smart choices, having a kitchen garden does pay off financially. Herbs will pay for themselves quickly, and over the years, so will the berry bushes and canes, fruit trees and fresh vegetables. J.D. and I literally ate several hundred dollars of free homegrown berries this past spring and summer — all from a bit of our own labor, a few supplies and the investment of the canes and bushes. And that crop will only be bigger next year.
http://www.foldedspace.org/images/house/berrypatchdone.jpg

We’ve also dug up the lawn to plant grapes and caneberries.
Most gardens, even sizable ones, can be maintained with thirty minutes of work per day. Hoe weeds while they’re small, mulch properly, water wisely and be timely about harvesting. But if you let the garden tasks slip for a week or two, you may face a daunting task of huge weeds, spoiled crops or everything dead from lack of water. Gardening requires a time commitment if you want to reap the benefits.

Other Thoughts
If you are a beginning gardener, start small. Build on your successes. Be wise: it’s easy to dive in headfirst and then be overwhelmed. Research the plants you want to grow and the conditions they require, build a manageable raised bed if you’re starting from scratch, and use local resources to gain knowledge and cut costs.

Gardening requires a bit of seed money to begin, but the rewards are many! Healthier, fresher food, time in the great outdoors and a connection to nature, as well as engaging in an activity that can build community. And I haven’t even mentioned how much more excited kids are to eat their vegetables when they helped grow them or how people appreciate a homemade gift from the garden — whether a beautiful bouquet, and bunch of fragrant herbs, a fresh salad or a jewel-toned jar of jam.

http://www.getrichslowly.org/images/tomatoes.jpg
In January fresh tomatoes are but a gardener’s dream.
Final Note
I recommend keeping your vegetable/fruit garden as organic as possible. One of the greatest benefits of growing your own is avoiding the pesticides (et al) on grocery-store goods. Insect diversity in your yard may be enough to keep pests in check; if you have an outbreak, simply try spraying with lightly soapy water, or other low-impact methods. If your soil is healthy and the plants are well-nourished, the plants will be strong and the bugs will be kept at bay.

This may not be practical in all climates, but here in Oregon, a few minutes each night hoeing will keep down the weeds, and the plants can take some munching by a bug or two once they’re established. With fertilizers, most choices are fine. I like an organic foliar spray — one that goes directly onto the leaves of my plants — but the crystalline concentrates that you mix with water can be fine as well, as long as your soil is already full of good organic matter and friendly worms.

Here are some additional resources:

Garden Web — “The internet’s garden & home community.”
National Gardening Association: USDA Hardiness Zone Finder
Gardens Alive! — “Environmentally responsible products that work!”
Happy gardening!

This article is about DIY, Food, Frugality Tuesday, 30th January 2007 (by J.D. Roth)

[Phil_Schnieder]

[b]Garden Location


Choosing the right location for your garden is as vital as to what grows in it. One of the key elements to the success or mediocrity of your garden is sunlight. Your garden should receive a minimum of 6 hours direct sunlight. However, 8-10 hours is ideal and will produce a far superior yield. Avoid planting near trees and shrubs, your garden will compete with them for sun, water, and nutrients. Their roots will also invade garden space. Avoid placing gardens in low spots, they are slow to warm in the spring, places for frost to settle, and poorly irrigated causing root rot.

Preparing the Soil


For first time beds, roto-tilling is usually necessary. Till when the soil is dry. Tilling while wet will leave large, unmanageable clumps. Till the plot to a depth of 18" adding organic material as you work the soil. Humus and manure are excellent for building up the soil. Your garden should be prepared by hand in following seasons. Roto-tilling can destroy earthworm activity which is important for the garden.

Watering Requirements


It is better to water your garden heavily but less frequently than to lightly shower every day. Light showers cause the roots to remain shallow drinking the water that sits at the surface. This surface water dries up quickly compared to the deeper soil. Heavier watering but less frequently promotes the roots to grow deeper into the soil enabling the plant to adapt better when there are drought conditions.

You will know your plants need watering when the dirt feels dry 3-4 inches below the surface or if the plants are drooping. Avoid watering in the full heat of the day, this can boil and burn the plant. Also avoid watering at night. Your plants will go to bed with "wet feet". This practice encourages leaf mildew since the plants do not have the warmth of the sun to dry the water overnight.

Hardiness & Frost Zones

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_21229152

Hardiness zones determine which plants will survive in which regions. The U.S. Dept. of Agriculture and the National Weather Service have identified these regions within North America by their 60 yr. average minimum winter temperatures.

Zone Last Frost First Frost
1
Frost potential 365 days a year

2 May 1-May 31 August 1-August 31
3 May 1-May 31 September 1-September 30
4 May 1-May 31 September 1-September 30
5 March 31-April 30 September 30-October 31
6 March 31-April 30 September 30-October 31
7 March 31-April 30 September 30-October 31
8 February 28-March 31 October 31-November 31
9 January 31-February 28 November 30-December 31
10 January 31-or before November 30-December 31
11 No Frost

Companion Planting


Some plants do better when in the company of other plants for a variety of reasons...to repel harmful insects, to attract useful insects, or to enhance the growth rate and flavor of other plants. Companion planting helps bring a balanced eco-system to your garden. Every garden is different with different problems. All problems will not be eliminated, but it is definitely worth experimenting. Below are plants with their "good" companions which enhance the plants existence, and their "bad" companions that can create adverse effects.
Asparagus
Good-Tomato, Parsley, Basil

Beans
Good-Rosemary, Peas, Corn, Cucumbers, Radishes
Bad--Onions

Beets
Good-Lettuce, Onions, Brassicas

Cabbage
Good-Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Spinach
Bad-Strawberries, Pole Beans, Tomatoes

Carrots
Good-Chives, Rosemary, Sage, Radishes, Lettuce
Bad-Dill

Corn
Good-Sunflowers, Pumpkins, Beans, Squash

Cucumbers
Good-Beans, Carrots, Onions, Radishes
Bad-Strong Herbs

Dill
Good-Cabbage, Onions, Cucumbers
Bad-Tomato

Marigold
Plant throughout the garden

Oregano
Good to all Vegetables

Peas
Good-Lettuce, Beans, Carrots, Radishes
Bad- Onions

Potatoes
Good- Horseradish

Roses
Good-Garlic

Tomatoes
Good-Basil, Carrots
Bad-Corn, Fennel

Sage
Good-Broccoli, Cauliflower, Rosemary, Cabbage, Carrots

Vegetables


ASPARAGUS
Full sun.
Prefers a soil of 6.5 ph, does not do well in acid soils.
Transplant crowns 12-18 in. apart in rows that are 4-6 ft. apart.
Wait to harvest one year after planting this perennial to allow for growth. Snap off at ground level.

ARTICHOKE
Full sun.
Prefers a soil ph 6.5-8.0
Plant offshoots 6 in. deep with the tops above ground level.
Space 3-4 ft. apart in rows that are 4-5 ft. apart.
Heads do not appear until the second year for this perennial. Harvest as soon as flower buds are visible, but before they open.

BEANS
Full sun.
Prefer a soil of 5.8-6.3.
Plant 2-3 in. apart in rows that are 25-30 in apart.
Harvest before beans mature while they are young and tender.

BEETS
Full sun.
Prefer a soil of 6.2-6.8
Plant 1/2 in. deep in rows that are 12-18 in. apart. Thin to 3-4 in. apart.
60-70 to maturity.
Harvest any time during growth cycle.

BROCCOLI
Full sun or semi-sun.
Prefers a soil of 5.5-6.6
Space plants 18-24 in. apart in rows that are 30 in. apart.
Matures in 55-75 days.
Harvest before yellow flowers appear and the head is still tight.

BRUSSEL SPROUT
Sun or semi-sun.
Prefer a soil of 6.5.
Set plants 24 in. apart in rows 30 in. apart.
Mature 3 months after setting plants.
Harvest lowest sprouts first, when lower leaves begin to turn yellow.

CABBAGE
Full sun.
Prefers a soil of 5.5-6.5
Plant 12-15 in. apart in rows that are 3 ft. apart.
Mature in 90 days.
Harvest as soon as heads form.

CARROTS
Full sun to partial shade.
Prefer a soil ph of 6.0-6.5
Plant 1/2 in. deep in rows 10 in. apart. When seedlings are 2 in. high, thin to 3 in. apart.
Mature in 65-75 days.
Harvest when they are sufficient size.

CAULIFLOWER
Full sun, tolerates light shade.
Prefers a soil ph of 6.5-7.5
Set plants 18 in. apart in rows that are 30 in. apart.
Matures in 60 days.
Harvest when heads are 6-8 in. across.

CORN
Full sun.
Prefers a soil ph of 6.0-6.8
Plant 1/2-1 in. deep at 4-6 in. apart in rows that are 3 ft. apart.
Matures in 65-95 days.
Harvest when kernels have just filled out.

CUCUMBER
Full sun.
Prefers a soil of 5.8-6.5, soil may need liming.
Plant 5 seeds in hills that are4-6 ft. apart. Thin to 3 plants per hill.
Matures in 50-70 days.
Harvest before they get too large.
Read the Full Profile>>

EGGPLANT
Full sun.
Prefers a soil ph of 6.0-6.8
Space plants 24-30 in. apart in rows that are 24-30 inches apart.
Matures in 60-80 days.
Heavy bearing will stress small plants, thin to 3-4 fruits.

GREEN PEPPER
Full sun.
Prefers a soil of 6.0-6.8.
Plant 18 in. apart in rows that are 24 in. apart.
Matures in 65-80 days.
If allowed to ripen before picking, peppers will be sweeter and have a higher vitamin C content.

LETTUCE
Tolerates partial shade.
Prefers a slightly acidic soil of 6.0-7.0
Plant 12 in. apart.
Matures in 70-80 days.
Harvest while heads are tightly packed.

ONION
Full sun.
Prefers a soil of 6.0-6.5
Plant transplants 3/4 in. deep at 1 in. apart, then thin to 2-3 in. apart in rows that are 16 in. apart.
Matures in 45-150 days depending on variety.
Harvest when the tops fall over and dry up.

PEAS
Full sun with slight mid-day shade.
Any soil above 5.0.
Plant seed 1 in. deep, 2-3 in. apart in rows 2 ft. apart.
Mature in 55-75 days.
Harvest just before peas are full size, but when pods are well filled and firm.
Read the Full Profile>>

PUMPKIN
Full sun.
Prefers a soil ph of 6.0-7.0
Plant seeds in hills 4-6 ft. apart, sowing 4-6 seeds per hill. Thin to 2-3 per hill.
Miniatures mature in 85-95 days. Jack-o-lanterns mature in 100-120 days.
Harvest when pumpkin is a deep solid color and rind is hard.
Read the Full Profile>>

RADISH
Full sun, tolerates some shade.
Tolerates any soil, but less acid is better.
Plant 1/2 in. deep in rows 12 in. apart. When seedlings are 2 in high thin to 2 in. apart
Fast maturing, matures in 20-30 days.
Harvest before splitting of roots occurs.

TOMATO
Full sun.
Prefers a slightly acid soil of 6.2-6.8.
Unstaked, plant 3 ft. apart in rows that are 5 ft. apart. Staked, plant 2 ft. apart in rows that are 3-4 ft. apart. Place stakes 5 ft. above ground and 1 ft. below ground. Place stakes and cages at planting time as not to disturb growing roots.
Harvest when color indicates ripeness.
Read the Full Profile>>

ZUCCHINI
Warm weather crop needs full sun to partial shade.
Prefers a soil ph of 6.0-7.0
Place plants 36 in. apart in rows that are 48 in. apart.
Mature in 45-55 days.
Best picked when small. Picking encourages more fruit.
Read the Full Profile>>

Fruits

BLUEBERRY
Full sun, will tolerate light shade.
Needs a highly acidic soil of 4.0-5.0, do not like a clay soil.
Harvest when the green circle where the berry meets the stem disappears.
Bare-root plants should be soaked in water for an hour before planting. Dig a hole 18-24 in. deep and 2 ft. wide. Place plant evenly into ground and cover with dirt.

CANTALOUPE
Full sun.
Prefer a soil ph of 5.5-6.0
Plant 5 seeds 1 in deep in hills spaced 4-6 ft. apart. When seedlings have developed their third set of leaves, thin to 3 plants per hill.
Harvest when melons slip easily off of stems.

CHERRY
Full sun.
Prefer a soil ph of 6.0-6.8
Read the Full Profile>>

RASPBERRY
Full sun to partial shade.
Prefer a soil ph of 5.8-6.5.
Harvest when berry turns from a light red to a deep, darker red. When it slips easily off the stem it is ready.
Read the Full Profile>>

STRAWBERRY
Full sun.
Prefer a soil ph of 6.0-6.5
Harvest when fully red.

WATERMELON
Full sun.
Prefer a soil ph of 6.0-6.8
Plant seed 1 in. deep in hills spaced 6 ft. apart in rows 7-10 ft. apart. Thin to 3 plants per hill.
Mature in 70-85 days.
Harvest when stem shrivels and there is a hollow sound when knocked.

Herbs


Herbs, like vegetables, require maximum amounts of direct sunlight. However, unlike vegetables, organic matter is not as beneficial to the herbal plant. Excess amounts of manure or humus cause the plant to produce excess foliage which decreases the strength of it's natural oils responsible for flavor. It is best to grow herbs in black dirt.
BASIL
(Ocimum basilicum)
Half-hardy annual. Grows to 18"
Culinary: Sweet with clove-like pungent tang
Medicinal: rheumatic pain, nervous disorders.

CHAMOMILE
(chamaemilum nobile)
Perennial. Grows 4-24"
Culinary: Steep leaves for tea.
Medicinal: Soothes and relaxes at bedtime

CHIVES
(Allium schoenoprasum)
Hardy perennial. Grows in clumps to 10" tall.
Culinary: Onion-like
Medicinal: Reduces blood pressure and cholesterol

CORIANDER
(Coriandrum sativum)
Annual. Grows to about 2 feet.
Medicinal: Digestive ailments and colic

CURRY
(Helichryum italicum subsp. siitalicum)
Perennial. Grows to1-2 ft.

DILL
(Anethum graveolens)
Annual. Grows to 2-5 ft.
Culinary: Pungent, tangy.
Medicinal: Digestive, improves condition of hair and nails.
Read the Full Profile>>

OREGANO
(Oreganum vulgare)
Hardy Perennial. Grows to 2 ft.
Culinary: Strong aromatic, with pleasantly bitter undertone.
Medicinal: Indigestion, bloating

PARSLEY
(Petroselinum crispum)
Hardy biennial that is usually treated as an annual.
Culinary: Relatively high in vitamin A, C, and iron.
Medicinal: Digestive, diuretic

ROSEMARY
(Rosmarinus officnalis)
Hardy evergreen shrub perennial.
Culinary: Fresh, sweet.
Medicinal: Cancer prevention properties.

SAGE
(Salvia officinalis)
Woody, hardy perennial. Grows 2-3 ft. Tends to sprawl.
Culinary: Aromatic, slightly bitter.
Medicinal: Antiseptic qualities.

SAVORY
(Satureja hortensis)
Tender annual. Grows to 18 in.
Culinary: Aromatic, slightly pungent.
Medicinal: Treat sore throat.

TARRAGON
(Artemisia dracunculus)
Perennial. Grows to 2 ft.
Seems to do best in semi-shade.
Culinary: Flavor similar to anise.
Medicinal: Appetite stimulant.

THYME
(Thymus vulgaris)
Perennial. Grows to6-10 in.
Culinary: Aromatic, pungent.
Medicinal: Expectorant


[b]Pests


http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_37575058Aphid
(Acyrthosiphonpisum myzuspersicae)
Aphids are typically found to be green, black, brown, or red. The adult, pear shaped body, is 1/16th-1/8th in. long. Found along stems or undersides of leaves, these sap sucking insects feed in colonies. Damaged plant leaves curl and become deformed. Aphids attack over 200 varieties of plants



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_3642796Cabbage Maggot
(Delia(Hylemya)radicum)
The adult cabbage maggot has an appearance similar to a that of a house-fly. Damaged plants will look pale green and stunted and may wilt. Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, radish, and turnips are the primary host plants.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_11087599Colorado Potato Beetle
(Leptinotarsa decemlineata)
The adult Colorado potato beetle is 3/8 in. long. It feeds on leaves hindering development of tubers or fruit. Potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers are the primary host plants.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_5900120Corn Earworm
(Helicoverpazea)
Also known as the Tomato Fruitworm or Cotton Bollworm. The corn earworm in it's adult stage is a moth. Infestation results in appearance of ragged holes in fruits and buds. Corn is the primary host plant.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_4709143Japanese Beetle
(Popillia Japonica)
The green-copper adult Japanese beetle grows to 1/2 in. long. Plant leaves become skeletized and fruit damage occurs. Attacks many plant varieties.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_38607125Silverleaf Whitefly
(Bemisia Argentifolii)
The adult Silverleaf Whitefly is 1/16 in. long. It sucks the sap from plants, stunting growth. This pest has over 500 different host plants including attacks petunia, rose, and crepe myrtle.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_4873540Striped Cucumber Beetle
(Acalymma Vittatum)
Yellow-orange eggs can be found in clusters of 25-50 on the underside of plant leaves. The adult cucumber beetle is 1/4 in. long. Damages plant by chewing holes into the leaves. Cucumber, cantaloupe, squash, pumpkin, and watermelon are the primary host plants.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_3184530Squash Vine Borer
(Melittia safyriniformis)
The adult squash vine borer moth is 5/8 in. long and resembles a wasp. Larvae bore within the stem. Infestation results in sudden wilt of plant. Zucchinni, squash, and pumpkin are the primary host plants.



http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-85270312810582_2098_16322136Thrip
Adult thrips are less than 2 mm long. Plants have course stippling on the leaf surface and browning of the petals. Most vegetable, flower, and orchard crops are attacked by at least one species of thrip.

[Phil_Schnieder]

A-D


Abdomen - the posterior section of the arthropod body.
Abiotic - nonliving.

Acclimate - to adapt to new environmental conditions.

Acidity - quality of being sour; degree of sourness; having a pH of less than 7.

Adventitious - plant parts, such as shoots and roots, produced in an unusual position on a plant or at an unusual time of development.

Aeration - to be exposed to air; to cause air to circulate through a medium.

Aggregates - (soil); clumps or cemented units of mineral and organic matter.

Algae - aquatic plants that lack a vascular system. Some are microscopic and others are large. Examples are pond scum, kelp and red tides.

Alkalinity - having a pH greater than 7.

Alternate host - a secondary host that becomes infected and is necessary for alternating generations of a disease-causing organism.

Amendment - an alteration or addition to soil to correct a problem.

Anaerobic - able to live and grow where there is no air.

Annuals - plants that complete their life cycle in a year or less.

Anther - the upper part of the stamen where the pollen is produced.

Apical bud - a bud at the apex or terminal position on a plant or branch.

Arboretum - pl. arboreta; a place where trees, shrubs, vines and herbaceous plants are cultivated for scientific and educational purposes.

Arthropod - invertebrate animals (insects, arachnids and crustaceans) that have a jointed body and limbs and usually a hard shell or exoskeleton that is molted periodically.

Asexual propagation - the duplication of a plant from a cell, tissue or organ of the plant.

Bacteria - microscopic organisms having round, rod-like, spiral or filamentous single-celled or noncellular bodies often gathered into colonies.

Band fertilize - to apply fertilizer in a narrow line along a row of plants or in a circle around individual plants.

Bare root - a plant that is sold or shipped dormant with no soil surrounding its roots.

Beneficial insects - insects that prey on or parasitize pests.

Bentgrass - a high-maintenance grass used on putting greens. It requires frequent cutting with a reel mower, frequent fertilization and watering. It is highly susceptible to several diseases.

Biennials - plants that complete their life cycle in two years or growing seasons.

Binomial nomenclature - a system in which the scientific name of a plant consists of two parts indicating the genus and species.

Biological control - the use of living organisms or their products to control pest populations.

Biological diversity - presence of many different types of living organisms.

Bolt - the tendency of cool-season plants to grow rapidly and produce seeds when exposed to warm temperatures.

Bonsai - a potted plant dwarfed by special cultural practices.

Bract - a modified leaf, usually reduced in size or scale-like. Sometimes large and brightly colored.

Bramble - any shrub with thorns in the rose family; usually refers to blackberries and raspberries.

Branch crown - plant tissue that is the junction of the roots and stem that forms on the side of a strawberry plant. These only form foliage.

Broad spectrum - pesticides that affect a wide variety of pests.

Bud scales - specialized tissue that covers the terminal bud and embryonic leaves of a plant during winter.

Bud union - the location of a graft.

Bulb - an underground storage organ made up of enlarged and fleshy leaf bases and a bud.

Bulbil - a small bulb that forms along the stems of certain plants, such as tiger lilies and bladder ferns.

Bulblet - a small bulb that develops around a parent bulb and can be removed to propagate additional plants.

Button - the small heads of broccoli or cabbage that form as a result of seedlings being exposed to freezing temperatures.

Cage - an enclosure used to support a plant.

Callus - wound tissue.

Cambium - the tissue in a plant that produces new cells.

Candle - the new shoot growth on needled evergreens before the needles expand.

Cane - a one-year-old shoot on a grapevine.

Canopy - the top layer of a tree including branches and foliage.

Capillary action - a force that causes liquids to rise or fall when inside very small tubular spaces.

Carbon dioxide, CO2 , - a colorless, odorless gas found in the air. It is absorbed by plants and exhaled by animals.

Carnivore - a flesh-eating animal.

Caterpillar - worm-like larva of various insects, especially butterflies and moths.

Cell - the unit of plants that makes up tissues. Cells have a cell wall that encloses the protoplasm.

Chlorophyll - green pigments in plants that facilitate photosynthesis.

Cloche - a transparent plant cover used to protect plants from cold temperatures.

Cold composting - composting under conditions where the temperatures do not rise to 140o F.

Cold frame - a glass-covered frame without artificial heat used to protect plants and seedlings.

Collar - a band of material used as a mechanical barrier to protect a plant from damage by insects.

Compaction - a state where soil particles are forced closely together, reducing pore space.

Complete metamorphosis - changes in body form of insects that include egg, larva, pupa and adult; also known as complex metamorphosis.

Compost tea - a low-nutrient liquid that results from placing plant debris in water and allowing it to decompose.

Composted manure - animal feces that have been aged in a pile, allowing much of the nitrogen to leach from the feces. A nonburning organic fertilizer.

Contact insecticide - a poison that must contact the body of the insect to be controlled.

Contractile - drawing together resulting in decreased size or bulk.

Cool-season crop - a crop that grows best during the cool temperatures of spring and fall.

Cool-season grass - turfgrasses that actively grow during the cooler spring and fall weather. These include Kentucky bluegrass, the fescues, ryegrasses and bentgrass.

Cordon - horizontal branches of a grapevine trained along the trellis; also called the arms. The canes left after pruning which will produce fruiting shoots and new canes.

Core aeration - increasing air penetration of the soil by removing plugs of soil. A heavy machine with hollow prongs is moved across a lawn pushing the prongs into the soil and pulling out plugs of soil.

Corm - a short, thickened, underground, upright stem in which food is stored.

Cormel - a small corm that forms around the parent corm. It can be removed and planted to propagate a new plant.

Cotyledon - the leaf or leaves of the embryo, also called seed leaves.

Cover crop - a crop that improves the soil in which it is grown.

Crop rotation - growing crops of a specific family in different areas of the garden each year to avoid soil-borne diseases and nutrient depletion.

Cross-pollination - the transfer of pollen from one plant to the stigma of another plant.

Crotch - the angle measured from the trunk of a tree to the upper surface of a branch.

Crown - the part of a plant where the root and the stem meet.

Culinary - used in cooking.

Cultivar - also cultivated variety; a subdivision of a species, a result of human-manipulated hybridization.

Cultivation - preparation of the soil for growing plants.

Cultural control - the use of good gardening techniques to control pest populations.

Cuticle - a waxy or varnish-like layer covering the outer surface of leaves.

Cutin - the waxy or varnish-like material that makes up the cuticle.

Day-neutral plant - a plant that will flower under any day length.

Days to maturity - the number of days between planting the seed and first harvest.

Deadhead - to remove spent blossoms of herbaceous plants.

Deciduous - plants that drop their leaves at the end of each growing season.

Dehydration - an abnormal loss of fluids.

Desiccation - drying.

Determinate - growth that is limited.

Diameter breast high - the diameter of a tree trunk at a height of 4-1/2 feet above the ground.

Dicot - also dicotyledon; flowering plants with embryos that have two cotyledons.

Dioecious - plants that have only male or only female flowers on an individual plant.

Disease resistance - the tendency not to be infected by a particular pathogen.

Disease tolerance - the ability of a plant to continue growing without severe symptoms despite being infected by a pathogen.

Division - a method of propagation by separating and planting segments capable of growing roots and shoots.

Dormancy - a state of suspended growth or lack of visible activity caused by environmental or internal factors.

Double dig - a method of digging a garden bed which involves removing the soil to the depth of one spade blade and then digging down an equal distance, breaking up and mixing the soil.

Drift - when a pesticide is blown by wind onto nontarget organisms.

Drip irrigation - a system of tubes with small holes that allow water to drip out onto the root zone of plants. A water-conserving irrigation system.

Drip line - a line encircling a tree corresponding to the furthest extension of the branches of a tree.

Drought - a prolonged period of dryness that can cause damage to plants.

E-M


Ecosystem - a system consisting of a community of animals, plants and microorganisms and the physical and chemical environment in which they interrelate.
Element - a substance that cannot be separated into different substances. All matter is made of elements.

Endophyte - a plant living within another plant. In turfgrasses, it is a fungus within the grass plant secreting substances that repel insect pests.

Epiphyte - A plant that usually grows on another plant and gets its nutrients from the air and water.

Espalier - a plant trained to grow flat against a wall or trellis.

Established - the state of a plant when it is adjusted to the site and thriving.

Evergreen plants - plants that do not drop the current season's leaves at the end of the growing season.

Fallow - cultivated land that is allowed to lie idle for a growing season.

Fertilization - the application of nutrients for plant growth. The union of the egg and sperm.

Fertilizer burn - the browning and in extreme cases, killing of plants from exposure to excessive nitrogen.

Fibrous root - a root system where the roots are finely divided.

Field capacity - the amount of water soil can hold against the force of gravity.

Filament - the part of the stamen that holds the anther in position for pollen dispersal.

Fine fescues - a fine-leaved turfgrass that grows well in shade, low soil moisture, low fertility and low pH. It requires well-drained, slightly dry soils. Red, hard and chewing fescues are included in this group.

Floricanes - on raspberries and blackberries, two-year-old canes which bear fruit and then die.

Food chain - a sequence of organisms in a community in which each member of the chain feeds on the member below it, as in fox, rabbit and grass.

Force - manipulation of environmental factors to make a plant blossom out of season.

Frond - the leaf of a fern.

Frost pocket - a depression in the terrain into which cold air drains, but cannot escape.

Fruiting wood - on grapevine, the one-year-old canes that will produce the current year's fruit.

Fungi - saprophytic and parasitic organisms that lack chlorophyll and include molds, rusts, mildews, smuts, mushrooms and yeast; singular, fungus.

Gametophyte - the phase of a life cycle which has half the normal number of chromosomes.

Genus - groups of closely related species clearly defined from other plants.

Girdling - removing the bark from a woody stem to kill the plant. Encircling a stem with a material so that the cambium layer is destroyed, killing the plant.

Grafting - the joining of two separate structures, such as a root and a stem or two stems, so that by tissue regeneration they form a union and grow as one plant.

Green manure - an annual cover crop that is turned into the soil before it flowers.

Greensand - an organic source of potassium. About 7% potash plus 32 trace elements.

Grub - short, fat, worm-like larva, especially of beetles.

Guard cells - specialized crescent-shaped cells that control the opening and closing of a stomata.

Harden off - to acclimate a plant to harsher conditions.

Hardiness - the ability to withstand harsh environmental conditions.

Hardpan - a hard, compacted, often clayey layer of soil through which roots cannot grow.

Hardwood cutting - a mature, woody piece of a woody plant that is removed to asexually propagate a new individual plant.

Heave - the partial lifting of a plant out of the soil as a result of alternating freezing and thawing of the soil.

Heavy metals - the heavy metals of concern to gardeners are lead, zinc, nickel, arsenic, copper and cadmium. These metals can be toxic to plants when they accumulate to high levels in the soil.

Heeling in - covering the roots of dormant plants with soil or mulch for short periods.

Heirloom vegetables - cultivars that were popular a generation or more ago.

Herbaceous - a nonwoody plant.

Herbicide - an agent that stops plant growth or kills a plant.

Herbivore - a plant-eating animal.

Hill planting - grouping plants in a cluster, not necessarily on an elevated mound.

Holdfast - a part of a plant that clings to a flat surface.

Honeydew - a sugary substance secreted by aphids and other juice-sucking, plant-feeding insects.

Hotbed - a bed of soil enclosed by a structure with a top of glass, heated, often by manure, for forcing or raising seedlings.

Humidity - the amount of moisture in the air.

Humus - brown or black, partially decomposed plant or animal material that forms the organic portion of soil.

Hybrid - a first generation cross between two genetically diverse parents.

Hyphae - pl. of hypha; the threads making up the mycelium of a fungus.

Incomplete metamorphosis - gradual growth of an arthropod that involves change in size, but not form.

Incubation - the growth of a pathogen so that it can enter a host.

Indeterminate - growth that is potentially limitless.

Infection - the stage when a pathogen is growing in a host and causing damage.

Inoculant - a microorganism which is introduced into the soil to improve growth of legume crops.

Inoculation - the introduction of a pathogen to a host.

Inorganic - being or composed of matter other than plant and animal; often of mineral origin.

Instar - the stage in the life of an arthropod between molts.

Internode - the area on a stem between nodes.

Interplant - growing two different intermixed crops in an area to maximize space usage.

Interstem - an intermediate stem piece that is grafted between the scion and the stock.

Irrigation - to supply water by artificial means, such as with sprinklers.

Kentucky bluegrass - a cool-season turfgrass that spreads by rhizomes. It is the most popular species for high-quality lawns in Ohio. It is very winter hardy.

Landscape fabric - a loosely intertwined fabric that is placed over the soil as a mulch to reduce weed invasion.

Larva - a stage of insect complete metamorphosis between the egg and pupal stages. The feeding, growing, nonreproductive stage of insect development.

Latent bud - a dormant bud that is capable of growth and development.

Lateral bud - smaller buds on the sides of stems, responsible for growth of leaves and side branches.

Lath house - a structure consisting of a frame supporting strips of wood which are spaced to provide about 50% shade.

Layering - a method of propagation in which adventitious roots form before the new plant is severed from the parent plant.

Leach - to dissolve in water and wash away.

Leaf scorch - injury to leaves due to lack of sufficient water, excessive transpiration or injury to the water-conducting system of the plant.

Long-day plant - a plant that requires a night shorter than its critical dark period, usually 12 hours or less, to develop flowers.

Macronutrients - the nutrients needed in large amounts by plants: nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, calcium and sulfur.

Marginally hardy - close to the limit of hardiness that a plant can withstand. Planting plants that are marginally hardy is risky, because under the most severe conditions for that zone, the plant may not survive without extra protection.

Matted-row - a system of planting where plants are placed off center or are centered on a diagonal.

Meristem - a region of cell and tissue initiation; cells that do not mature, but remain capable of further growth and division.

Metamorphosis - the changes of form insects go through in their life cycle from egg to immature stages to adult.

Microbe - also microorganism; an organism of microscopic size.

Microclimate - the local climate of a small site or habitat.

Micronutrients - the nutrients needed in small amounts by plants: iron, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, boron and chlorine.

Miticide - a pesticide that kills mites.

Mollusk - invertebrate animals with soft, unsegmented bodies, such as clams and snails, usually enclosed in a calcium shell.

Molt - to shed the exoskeleton to accommodate growth.

Monocot - or monocotyledon, flowering plants that have embryos with only one cotyledon.

Monoecious - plants that have both male and female flowers on the same plant.

Moss - small, leafy plants that do not produce flowers or seeds. They grow in moist, shaded areas where fertility is low.

Mycoplasma - disease-causing agents similar to viruses.

[Phil_Schnieder]

N-S

Natural - occurring in nature.
Nematodes - microscopic, elongated, cylindrical, parasitic worms that live in water and soil.

Node - the location on a stem where buds form.

Nodules - swellings on the roots of legumes where nitrogen-fixing bacteria live.

Nonselective pesticide - a poison that kills a wide variety of pest species.

Nutrients - substances a plant takes in and uses as food for growth and development.

Nymph - a stage or series of size changes between egg and adult in the life cycle of insects that go through incomplete or simple metamorphosis.

Organic - of plant or animal origin.

Ovary - the swollen bottom part of the pistil that contains the ovules or immature seeds.

Oxygen, O2, - a colorless, tasteless, odorless gas that is 1/5 of the volume of the atmosphere.

Parasitic - an organism that lives on or in another living organism (the host) and obtains nutrition from the host.

Pathogen - a disease-causing organism.

Pelletized - the coating and forming into pellets of very small seed so they are easier to handle.

Penetration - the point at which a pathogen enters a host.

Perennial ryegrass - a cool-season turfgrass with seeds that germinate quickly. The cultural requirements are similar to those of Kentucky bluegrass; however, it is not quite as hardy or disease resistant as bluegrasses.

Perennials - plants that do not die after flowering, but live from year to year.

Petals - a whorl of structures that surround the inner reproductive organs of a flower. Together they are called the corolla. They often attract insects by color or nectar, facilitating pollination.

Pheromone - a chemical substance that convey information to and produce specific responses in certain animals.

Phloem - the part of the vascular system that moves food through the plant.

Photoperiodism - responses of plants to the relative lengths of light and dark cycles.

Photosynthesis - the production of sugar from carbon dioxide and water in the presence of chlorophyll, activated by light energy and releasing oxygen.

Phototropism - the bending of a plant toward the direction of more intense light.

Pinch - breaking off the terminal growing point of a plant to encourage axillary buds to grow.

Pistil - the female part of the flower, consisting of one or more carpels and enclosed ovules.

Pollard - a tree cut back to the trunk to make a dense cluster of branches and foliage.

Pollen - the microspores that carry the male gametophyte of seed plants.

Pollination - the transfer of pollen from the anther to the stigma.

Pollinator - an insect or other vehicle by which pollen is carried from one flower to another. A plant that provides pollen for a self-infertile plant.

Post-emergent herbicide - a pesticide that kills plants after they have grown to seedling stage or beyond.

Potpourri - a mixture of dried flower petals with herbs and spices used for its fragrance.

Potting medium - material used for growing plants in containers. Mixes may include vermiculite, perlite, sand, peat, charcoal, loam and fertilizer.

Pre-emergent herbicide - a pesticide that kills plants as they germinate.

Primocanes - on raspberries and blackberries, new, first-year canes.

Procumbent - having stems that trail along the surface.

Propagation - to increase the number of plants by sexual or asexual meansProtozoans - organisms made up of a single cell or a group of basically identical cells.

Prune - to cut back parts of plants for better shape, disease control or improved fruiting.

Pupa - a stage in complete metamorphosis when an insect transforms from the larval to adult stage of development.

Raised bed - a gardening area where the soil has been elevated above ground level. This gardening technique is especially used where soil drainage is poor. Beds can be raised in a structure of wood, brick, cement blocks, etc.

Rasping - mouthparts that are rough and used to scrape a surface to feed.

Reel mower - a mower with multiple blades mounted on a cylinder. The blades cut against a bar. It makes precise cuts and is ideal for lower mowing heights. The blades require professional sharpening. These mowers are safer to use than rotary mowers.

Renewal spur - on grapevines, the cane pruned to one or two nodes on the cordon; becomes the fruiting cane the following year.

Renovation - removing an old planting and putting in a new one or removing and replacing only part of a planting. In strawberry culture, this process involves removing the leaves of the plants and cultivating the aisle to reduce the width of the row of plants to no more than 15 inches.

Respiration - the process where food is oxidized (burned) to release energy.

Rhizome - an underground, horizontal stem.

Root - the portion of the plant usually found below ground. They are distinguished from stems by not having nodes.

Root girdling - encircling roots at or below the surface of the ground that tend to strangle the plant.

Root hairs - tubular outgrowths of surface cells of the root.

Root prune - to cut back the roots of a plant to encourage them to develop more fibrous roots or to reduce the mass of roots. Usually done before transplanting established plants or repotting houseplants.

Rooting hormone - a chemical that stimulates the growth of roots.

Rootstock - the root onto which a scion or bud is grafted or budded.

Rotary mower - a mower with a blade that spins in a horizontal plane from a central rod. Its advantages are the ability to cut tall grass, versatility of movement, a less expensive purchase price and blades that can be easily sharpened.

Row cover fabric - a loosely woven translucent fabric used to keep insect pests off crops. It also functions as a cloche.

Saprophyte - an organism that obtains nutrition from dead organic matter.

Scarification - the physical or chemical treatment given to some seeds in order to weaken the seed coat sufficiently for germination to occur.

Scion - the upper part of the union of a graft.

Scorch - injury to leaves due to lack of sufficient water, excessive transpiration or injury to the water-conducting system of the plant.

Seed - the organ that forms after fertilization occurs.

Selective herbicide - a pesticide that kills only one type of plant, for example broadleaf herbicides only kill broadleaf weeds, not turfgrasses.

Self-cleaning - herbaceous plants that drop spent blossoms, thus not requiring deadheading.

Sepals - structures that usually form the outermost whorl of a flower. Together, they are called the calyx.

Sewage sludge - the solid matter that settles out during the treatment of sewage.

Sexual reproduction - production of new generations involving the exchange of chromosomes from both a male and female parent.

Sharp sand - a coarse sand used in building.

Short-day plant - a plant that requires a night longer than its critical dark period, usually 12 hours or more, to develop flowers.

Side-dress - to apply fertilizer to the side of a row of growing plants or around single plants.

Slice seed - a technique used to sow seed. A machine cuts or slices grooves into the lawn or soil and drops seeds directly into the grooves. It is used to fill in a thinning lawn without disturbing the existing grass excessively.

Soaker hose - a porous tube that allows water to seep from it; used to irrigate plants. It is used to conserve water and to avoid wetting plant foliage.

Softwood cutting - a nonwoody piece of a woody plant that is cut from the stock plant to asexually propagate a new individual plant.

Soil conditioner - any material added to soil to improve its structure, texture, tilth or drainage.

Soilless mix - potting medium that contain a mixture of ingredients from the materials listed for potting medium, but no mineral soil.

Soluble salt - salts from fertilizers and tap water that are dissolved in water.

Solvent - a liquid that can dissolve a substance.

Species - a group of closely related individuals that have the potential to reproduce with each other; a unit of classification.

Specific epithet - the second name of the binomial given to a species; for instance, "rubrum" is the species epithet of Acer rubrum.

Spines - a sharp-pointed woody structure, usually a modified leaf or leaf part.

Spore - a minute reproductive body produced by primitive organisms, such as ferns and fungi.

Sporophyte - the part of a life cycle when the full complement of chromosomes are present.

Spreader-sticker - substances added to pesticides to make them spread over and stick to a surface more readily.

Spur - on grapevines, canes pruned to 1 to 4 nodes.

Square-foot gardening - a system of gardening developed by Mel Bartholomew that uses 4 foot by 4 foot plots subdivided into 1-foot squares for growing a specific number of a particular type of vegetable to maximize space and facilitate ease of maintenance.

Stake - a piece of pointed wood or metal that is driven into the ground to support a plant.

Stamen - the male part of the flower. It consists of the anther and the slender filament that holds it in position.

State specialists - professors at landgrant universities who provide expertise for Extension workers.

Stem - the main trunk of a plant. It develops buds and shoots.

Stigma - the part of the pistil that receives the pollen grains; usually the top of the pistil.

Stock plant - a plant used as a source for cuttings.

Stomata - an opening or pore in leaves that is surrounded by guard cells.

Strain - a subgroup of a species; the descendants of a common ancestor.

Stratification - storing of seeds at low temperatures under moist conditions in order to break dormancy.

Style - the slender part of a pistil between the stigma and the ovary.

Succession planting - planting portions of a crop over a period of time to get a continuous harvest over a long period of time.

Succulent - having tender, new growth or thick, fleshy tissues which store water, such as cactus.

Sucker - a shoot arising from the root or lower part of the stem of a plant.

Sunscald - plant injury caused by exposure to bright sunlight, excessive heat and/or wind.

Susceptible host - an organism that can be infected by a pathogen.

Symbiotic - a relationship in which two or more dissimilar organisms live together in close association.

Symptom - evidence of disease or damage.

Synthetic - substances produced by chemical or biochemical means.

Systemic - a group of pesticides that are absorbed into the tissues of plants, thereby poisoning the organisms that feed on the plant.


T-Z


Tall fescue - a coarse, clump-forming turfgrass that tolerates low fertility, heavy wear, heat and drought and has good insect and disease tolerance. Young seedlings are not cold tolerant, but mature plants survive most Ohio winters.

Taproot - a stout, tapering primary root that has limited side branching or fine roots.

Temperate - moderate; the zones between the tropics and the polar regions of the earth.

Tendril - a slender, coiling modified leaf or leaf part. These help plants climb.

Tepee - a tripod of stakes used to support climbing plants.

Terminal bud - large, vigorous buds at the tips of stems.

Terrace - a series of flat platforms of soil on the side of a hill, rising one above the other.

Thatch - an intertwined layer of dead and living roots, stems and blades of grass plants. It holds water, pesticides and fertilizer like a sponge, preventing them from reaching the roots.

Thorax - the middle of the three major divisions of the arthropod body.

Topiary - training, cutting and trimming of plants into ornamental shapes.

Topsoil - uppermost layer of soil, usually darker and richer than the subsoil.

Toxicity - intensity of a poison.

Transpiration - the loss of water from plant tissues in the form of vapor.

Transplanting - digging up a growing plant from one location to plant it in another location.

Trellis - a frame of latticework used as a support for climbing plants.

Tropical - regions of the earth lying between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn extending around the equator where the temperature and humidity are high.

Trunk - the main stem of a tree, shrub or vine.

Tuber - an enlarged, underground stem that stores food.

Turgid - the condition of a cell, tissue or plant when it is filled with water so that it is firm; not wilted.

Understock - the part of a plant to which a graft is attached.

Variegated - plant parts having different pigments resulting in more than one distinct color or shade on the foliage.

Variety - a subdivision of a species; occurs through natural hybridization.

Vascular system - the tissue in a plant that moves fluids through the plant.

Vector - an organism that transmits a disease-causing pathogen.

Vegetative - plant parts and processes concerning growth and nutrition and not reproduction.

Venation - the pattern of veins.

Viable - capable of growing or developing.

Virus - a group of submicroscopic infective agents that are considered nonliving complex molecules.

Warm-season crops - crops that are harmed by frost and do not grow well until the temperatures are in the 70s.

Whip - a very young tree that still has a flexible trunk.

Wide-row planting - growing the smaller vegetable crops in a space up to 3 feet across to better utilize space while reducing weeding.

Wilting point - the amount of water in a soil when a plant cannot obtain enough water to remain turgid.

Witches'-broom - a dense, bushy growth of branches and foliage caused by a parasitic fungus and mites or poor pruning techniques.

Xylem - the part of the vascular system that moves water and minerals through the plant.

[Phil_Schnieder]

PLANT DATABASEs
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=plant+database&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&q=plant+database&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=)
http://plants.usda.gov/ (http://plants.usda.gov/)
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/ (http://www.wildflower.org/plants/)

(information on different plants by Latin name, Common name, Geographical Range, Use, Habitat etc)

[Sock Puppy]

Hey Phil,

Have you tried companion planting the tomatoes with the asparagus? How would that work? I would think that the Asparagus would block out the sun from the tomatoes.

I've never heard of this.

I guess I'll go a googling.

--SP

[Phil_Schnieder]

I've only had experience with one asparagus patch before and it was already 30 years old and by it's lonesome then.