Anyone Here a Structural Engineer?

[skid]

I'm building a two story garage, and am well versed in building. But, I want to make sure the header beam for my 16 foot wide garage door is sized appropriately. The upper floor will be used for storage, with a possibility to eventually convert to a mother in law suite. Floor live loading should be standard 50lbs/sq ft, or slightly higher. We have high snow loads here, but I will pitch the roof 9/12 so snow slips off and doesn't collect on the roof.

The one thing I don't want to use is engineered wood products due to concerns with off gassing, glue longevity, and potential damage from water. I do have access to a mill that can cut a douglas fir beam to any size required, or I can laminate whatever conventional lumber size as required.

I am planning on stick framing the building using either 2x6 or 2x8 douglas fir, and will use 3/4" exterior plywood for walls. Basically way overbuilding the structure as i want it to last a long time, similar to the house I have.

[skid]

I was reviewing some structural load tables for wood, and I am probably going way over kill here, but if i use 2x8 studs, I can use an 8xX beam. I'll probably have the mill go 8x24 just to be on the safe side, as this beam will be supporting the second story floor joists over the garage, and the extra height of the header isn't an issue with the high ceilings I am planning.

The 2nd story floor joists are spanning 24 feet as well. I can have a local company build floor trusses to cover that span, as the only other options are 2x14 engineered I beams, or 3x14 on 12" centers, and that will be expensive.

[Horn]

I was reviewing some structural load tables for wood, and I am probably going way over kill here, but if i use 2x8 studs, I can use an 8xX beam. I'll probably have the mill go 8x24 just to be on the safe side, as this beam will be supporting the second story floor joists over the garage, and the extra height of the header isn't an issue with the high ceilings I am planning.



Sounds about proper, I work with reinforced concrete, and a 16ft. span could easily be done with 6x18.

As far as stick built I'd have to look in the bible at work tomorrow, but 8x24 sounds like you can't go wrong.

I look tomorrow if you still are wondering.

[Horn]

Pssst. checkout this site. got some cool little numbers. Specifically the "Machines" tab at the top


Your avatar reminded me of.

http://www.messersi.it/eng/index01.asp

[skid]

I was reviewing some structural load tables for wood, and I am probably going way over kill here, but if i use 2x8 studs, I can use an 8xX beam. I'll probably have the mill go 8x24 just to be on the safe side, as this beam will be supporting the second story floor joists over the garage, and the extra height of the header isn't an issue with the high ceilings I am planning.



Sounds about proper, I work with reinforced concrete, and a 16ft. span could easily be done with 6x18.

As far as stick built I'd have to look in the bible at work tomorrow, but 8x24 sounds like you can't go wrong.

I look tomorrow if you still are wondering.



I'd appreciate any input you may have. Thanks

[Bigjon]

You can find the math here:
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/solid_mechanics/beams/theory.cfm

Renew your math skils:
http://archives.math.utk.edu/visual.calculus/4/index.html

[skid]

You can find the math here:
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/solid_mechanics/beams/theory.cfm

Renew your math skils:
http://archives.math.utk.edu/visual.calculus/4/index.html



Thanks, I think....

El cheapo me is now hiring an engineer to spec the beams. There are too many variables for me to consider, and I don't want to get this wrong.

[Horn]

Hold on, I have the Bible in my paws, let see if your engineer follows it?

Or has other such input.

[Horn]

Book is up to 40psi, due to quality of wood...

The 16ft. span row, shows 12"depth max.

Covering all load conditions 40psi it shows Qty. (2) 3x12, or variations thereof. (4) 2x12 is also shown.

[skid]

Book is up to 40psi, due to quality of wood...

The 16ft. span row, shows 12"depth max.

Covering all load conditions 40psi it shows Qty. (2) 3x12, or variations thereof. (4) 2x12 is also shown.


Very good!

Thank you

[Bigjon]

Here is a beam calculator.

http://www.easycalculation.com/mechanical/deflection-solid-rectangular-beams.php

About 10 months ago I came across a mechanical engineering class complete with lectures and everything. I can't find it now.

MIT has free courses online.
http://ocw.mit.edu/OcwWeb/Mechanical-Engineering/2-001Fall-2006/Readings/index.htm

Probable cheaper to hire an architect, but not nearly as much fun.

[Levi Philos]

For crying out loud!

You are in a high snow load area, and while your message doesn't explicitly say it, it hints you are shedding your snow in front of the door.

Redesign, and put your doors in the gable end of a wide building. Shed the snow off to either side.

Lets see if I can attach a couple of pictures of garages I built here in west Montana.

The Zmuda building was finished later, after I fell out of the rafters to the second floor. It is 40 feet wide and has internal steel posts supporting the second floor. An internal pony wall carries shorter 24 foot rafters with tails added in field to extend out over the outside wall.

Garys garage is 52 feet wide; details in the document.

Levi Philos

[Levi Philos]

Looks like the Zmuda pic didn't load; second try; and those rafters don't look it, but are 6/12 pitch. Snow starts sliding decent at about a 5/12, and with a darker colored metal roof, snow never sets very long.

[skid]

My roof isn't a straight gable. It is two gables at right angles forming a T. You are correct saying that it will dump snow in front of one 16 foot garage door, but the building is 44 feet long and there is another garage door that won't be dumped on as it has the gable peak right above it. There's not much I can do about it, and it matches my house which has the same layout.

I have a tractor to remove snow regardless, and many years we don't get any snow. Some years we do get several feet of wet heavy stuff though...

Maybe I can put snow stops on the roof to prevent sliding in that area? I know that the nearby Whistler ski resort does that on public buildings, as a small girl almost got buried alive by snow sliding off a steep roof.

Thanks for your input

[skid]

Looks like the Zmuda pic didn't load; second try; and those rafters don't look it, but are 6/12 pitch. Snow starts sliding decent at about a 5/12, and with a darker colored metal roof, snow never sets very long.


That's a nice garage by the way. Lot's of storage up top too. I'm building a barn similar in size to that but in a monitor style.