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View Full Version : Replacing a light switch Query



willie pete
30th April 2010, 07:18 PM
Anyone with some expertise on replacing a light switch like to chime in?

Gaillo
30th April 2010, 07:22 PM
Anyone with some expertise on replacing a light switch like to chime in?


It's easier than it looks... have a good flashlight, and make sure the power is cut before you do anything. Gather your tools and new switch first and deposit them next to the wall switch on a chair, so you won't be running around in the dark looking for tools in the middle of the whole thing. Should take you about 10 minutes start to finish, there is usually a pair of screws that holds the cover on, a pair of screws that holds the switch in the box, and a pair of screws or wire nuts that connect the two wires to the switch. Have a friend/wife/whoever hold the flashlight for you while you do the screwdrivering, have a pair of needle-nose pliars or electrical pliars handy for bending the wires off and on the old/new screws if it's not the wire-nut type switch.

Good luck!

willie pete
30th April 2010, 07:42 PM
I should've went into some detail, it's not that easy because, what I have in the box, after removing the old switch, is 3 wires (2 Red & 1 Blue) it's a double switch box, in looking at the other switch thats intact, it's red on top and blue on bottom (the sequence the wires are attached), so If re-attach the new switch the same way, I'll have a red wire dangling, could that be capped off you think?

Bullion_Bob
30th April 2010, 07:42 PM
I usually rewire them live, but I also have a diverse electronics background with a lot of hands on experience. I don't recommend the live method.

Remove face plate cover, remove two screws holding the switch into the junction box. Then pull it out as far as it will go.

Three wires: black (hot), white (return), and green or stripped copper wire (ground).

Then look at the designations on the switch you bought (little folded up paper pamphlet in the box).

Brass colored contact (screw) is usually for black, silver color screw gets the white wire, ground goes to the chassis of the switch or the metal junction box itself. Doesn't matter where the ground goes as the switch connects to the box via metal screws (i.e. it conducts to the switch chassis anyways) Whichever is easier at the time.

Bullion_Bob
30th April 2010, 07:43 PM
I should've went into some detail, it's not that easy because, what I have in the box, after removing the old switch, is 3 wires (2 Red & 1 Blue) it's a double switch box, in looking at the other switch thats intact, it's red on top and blue on bottom (the sequence the wires are attached), so If re-attach the new switch the same way, I'll have a red wire dangling, could that be capped off you think?


Snap a photo if you can.

keehah
30th April 2010, 07:48 PM
Is it a three way switch? I mean does another switch control the same light?

willie pete
30th April 2010, 07:51 PM
I usually rewire them live, but I also have a diverse electronics background with a lot of hands on experience. I don't recommend the live method.

Remove face plate cover, remove two screws holding the switch into the junction box. Then pull it out as far as it will go.

Three wires: black (hot), white (return), and green or stripped copper wire (ground).

Then look at the designations on the switch you bought (little folded up paper pamphlet in the box).

Brass colored contact (screw) is usually for black, silver color screw gets the white wire, ground goes to the chassis of the switch or the metal junction box itself. Doesn't matter where the ground goes as the switch connects to the box via metal screws (i.e. it conducts to the switch chassis anyways) Whichever is easier at the time.





The "Hot Method"... :D HELL NO!!! :lol, IF that were the color configuration of the wires, it'd be an in-n-out'er, but there is no black,and no ground (green or stripped bare Cu wire) I spoke with someone at HD, and he said because of the age of construction, the switch I pulled off was a timer switch, and it had 3 wires coming from the back, (red,black & blue) the red wire coming from the timer was taped-off, so I think it was connected, blue to blue & black to red, that still leaves a red dangling in the box, I'm thinking it was capped off...should've taken a pic... >:(

willie pete
30th April 2010, 07:52 PM
I should've went into some detail, it's not that easy because, what I have in the box, after removing the old switch, is 3 wires (2 Red & 1 Blue) it's a double switch box, in looking at the other switch thats intact, it's red on top and blue on bottom (the sequence the wires are attached), so If re-attach the new switch the same way, I'll have a red wire dangling, could that be capped off you think?


Snap a photo if you can.





I took several pics, but they're HUGE, the forum max is 250kb, so they won't post

Bingo..

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/3374/0000148.jpg (http://img714.imageshack.us/i/0000148.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/3374/0000148.jpg (http://img576.imageshack.us/i/0000148.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

willie pete
30th April 2010, 07:54 PM
Is it a three way switch? I mean does another switch control the same light?


No, it's a double switch, like at an entrance door, one switch controls an exterior or porch light, the other would control an interior light or wall recepticle

Gaillo
30th April 2010, 07:59 PM
Holy non-standard wire coloring, batman! :o

This one has moved beyond the "beginner" level. You'll need a multi-meter to figure out which wires are which - you might want to consult an electrician if you know one.

keehah
30th April 2010, 08:01 PM
Some times a hall light has a switch at either end of the hall (as example), if this was the case it would explain the extra (non ground) wire at each or one of the switches. These type of switches are called three way switches as they take three wires (a ground being the fourth).

If not I'm not sure what you have-not really able to help I think.

When I was 17 I replaced the steering column in my Datsun 510 with a tilt steering from a Chev Citation. No wiring diagrams or multi-meter. Just kept connecting wires together to see what did what and went through a box of fuses. Was only playing with 12 volts though and a car not a house. (and I was acting like a teenager of course) :D

willie pete
30th April 2010, 08:05 PM
Holy non-standard wire coloring, batman! :o

This one has moved beyond the "beginner" level. You'll need a multi-meter to figure out which wires are which - you might want to consult an electrician if you know one.


:lol :lol :lol ....I should've taken a pic prior to removing the timer switch, I DO know the red wire coming from the back of the timer was taped-off, so it was the blue and balck wire going into the box, and I wanna think they were connected as such, but I can't remember if the Other red wire in the box was capped or not, I'm thinking it was

willie pete
30th April 2010, 08:11 PM
I certainly appreciate all the help...gracias Comrades ;D

I was just looking, and there are only 2 wire nuts that I took off (out of the box) So that would have to mean 4 wires spliced together and that'd mean one left inside the box taped-off...Hmmmmm

Book
30th April 2010, 08:15 PM
Anyone with some expertise on replacing a light switch like to chime in?


http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2002-123/images/photo20.gif

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2002-123/2002-123b.html

:oo-->

Saul Mine
30th April 2010, 08:21 PM
General rules
1. If you know what to do: Get some young person to do it for you.
2. If you don't know what to do: Hire someone who does.

willie pete
30th April 2010, 08:22 PM
Anyone with some expertise on replacing a light switch like to chime in?


http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2002-123/images/photo20.gif

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2002-123/2002-123b.html

:oo-->


Thanks for the safety tip Sir Book, beleive me that was the FIRST thing I did, verified the power was off before I even loosened a screw... :D I was shocked at work one time, years ago, plugging in an apparatus, 110? 220? don't know, but it was a jolt, my arm was sore the next day


Normally, this would be something that takes 5 minutes of your time and it would If the wiring had been newer construction and generically color coded

7th trump
30th April 2010, 08:38 PM
A blue wire and two red wires and you say there is a black as well?

Holly buckets. They used three phases wire coloring.
One is definitely a neutral (most likely the odd colored one) and other two wires, well if the light is truely a two way and not a three way set up, one is hot and the other is probably an extra. I've seen this before but not two reds.
Red is usually an indicater of the second phase and the blue is the third phase. :conf:
Which red wire comes through the knock out hole of the box with the blue wire?
These two are most likely the two wires to complete the circuit.
Hook up the blue wire to the silver lug on the switch (neutral). Next flip the switch to the on position and take one red wire at a time and touch the gold lug on the switch. If the light comes on and it a two way then you have figured out wich red wire completes the circuit. Or just bypass the switch and test the blue wire with a red until a light comes on, if it does at all. Could be that both reds are the two wires, but if you know the blues used I'd make that the neutral. One way of testing is to see if you flip a breaker when touching the metal box if the box is grounded with the bare copper wire.
I still dont understand why you would have wire nuts for a switch having lugs unless it was pig tailed but that doesnt make sense either.
You say that you took out was a timer and replacing it with a switch?
What does the other switch do?

General of Darkness
30th April 2010, 08:55 PM
Left is off on dim switches with knobs, down is off on dim switch slides. When all else fails, most switches say OFF on them. This crap is pretty damn easy. Worst case scenario, you trip a circuit breaker or find out how fast your reflexes are. Unless you're a retard you should be fine.

Olmstein
30th April 2010, 09:16 PM
I thought you said light bulb. My mistake.

How many jugglers does it take to change a lightbulb ?

- Only one, but it takes at least three lightbulbs.


How many doctors does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- It depends on whether it has medical insurance.


How many fatalists does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- It doesn't matter, We're all going to die anyway.


How many feminists does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- Two. One to change the bulb, and one to write about how it felt.
- Three. One to screw it in, and two to talk about the sexual implications.
- Four. One to change the bulb, and three to write about how the bulb is exploiting the socket.
- Three. One to change the bulb, and two to secretly wish they were the socket.
- Two. One to change the lightbulb, and one to kick the balls of any man who even tries to volunteer his help.



How many investment brokers does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- "My god, it burnt out ! Sell all my general electric stock, NOW !!!"


How many automechanics does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- Five. One to force it with a hammer, and four to go out for more lightbulbs.


How many bankers does it take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- Four. One to hold the bulb, and three to try and remember the combination.


How many christian scientist does ot take to screw in a lightbulb ?

- None. But it takes at least three to sit and prey for the old one to come back on.


How many Technical Support folks does it take to change a lightbulb ?
- We have an exact copy of the bulb here, and it appears to work fine. Can You tell me what kind af system You have ? Okay, exactly how dark is it ? Okay, there could be four or five things wrong.... Have You tried the light switch ???


How many Microsoft vice presidents does it take to change a lightbulb ?

- Eight. One to change the bulb, and seven more to make sure Microsoft gets $2 every time a lightbulb is changed anywhere in the world.


How many Palestinians does it take to change a lightbulb?

- None, they sit in the dark and curse the Jews.

willie pete
30th April 2010, 09:19 PM
A blue wire and two red wires and you say there is a black as well?

Holly buckets. They used three phases wire coloring.
One is definitely a neutral (most likely the odd colored one) and other two wires, well if the light is truely a two way and not a three way set up, one is hot and the other is probably an extra. I've seen this before but not two reds.
Red is usually an indicater of the second phase and the blue is the third phase. :conf:
Which red wire comes through the knock out hole of the box with the blue wire?
These two are most likely the two wires to complete the circuit.
Hook up the blue wire to the silver lug on the switch (neutral). Next flip the switch to the on position and take one red wire at a time and touch the gold lug on the switch. If the light comes on and it a two way then you have figured out wich red wire completes the circuit. Or just bypass the switch and test the blue wire with a red until a light comes on, if it does at all. Could be that both reds are the two wires, but if you know the blues used I'd make that the neutral. One way of testing is to see if you flip a breaker when touching the metal box if the box is grounded with the bare copper wire.
I still dont understand why you would have wire nuts for a switch having lugs unless it was pig tailed but that doesnt make sense either.
You say that you took out was a timer and replacing it with a switch?
What does the other switch do?


Check the pic, I removed a timer switch with 3 wires coming out the back (red,blue & black) the red wire COMING from the timer was taped-off, not in use, the blue wire(from the timer) was spliced into the blue wire inside the box, the black wire (coming from the timer) was spliced into a red wire(inside the box), but if you look at the photo, there are 2 red wires inside the box, so splicing the black wire (from the timer) to a red wire inside the box, would still give you 1 red wire left over, that's part of the problem, I'm thinking that other red wire was taped-off and not in use, but I can't recall for sure, but there's no other place it go

willie pete
30th April 2010, 09:20 PM
Left is off on dim switches with knobs, down is off on dim switch slides. When all else fails, most switches say OFF on them. This crap is pretty damn easy. Worst case scenario, you trip a circuit breaker or find out how fast your reflexes are. Unless you're a retard you should be fine.


Retard? .... :plll :plll :plll :lol :lol You guys are killin' me...http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing013.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)

General of Darkness
30th April 2010, 09:33 PM
Retard? .... :plll :plll :plll :lol :lol You guys are killin' me...http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-laughing013.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)


Hey now, I always know when I go, "OH SHIT", that's probably wrong. Easy peasy.

Spectrism
1st May 2010, 03:46 AM
Looks like a three-way setup.

Is there another switch that was controlling that light?

Do you have a voltmeter? Continuity tester?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDyvcM0gcVs

Saul Mine
1st May 2010, 07:27 AM
How Does Your Breed of Dog Change a Light Bulb??


Golden Retriever:
The sun is shining, the day is young, we've got our whole lives ahead of us, and you're inside worrying about a stupid burned out bulb?

Border Collie:
I can do it just as quickly and efficiently as any human can. And then I'll replace any wiring that's not up to code.

Dachshund:
You know I can't reach that stupid lamp!

Rottweiler:
Make me.

Lab:
Oh, me, me!! Puhleeez let me change the light bulb! Can I? Can I? Huh? Huh? Huh? Can I?

Newfoundland:
Let the Border Collie do it and then you can feed me while he's busy.

Jack Russell Terrier:
I'll just pop it in while I'm bouncing off the walls and furniture.

Poodle:
I'll just blow into the Border Collie's ear and he'll do it. And by the time he finishes rewiring the house, my nails will be dry.

Cocker Spaniel:
Why change it? I can still pee on the carpet in the dark.

Doberman Pinscher:
Change it?? While it's dark, I'm going to sleep on the couch.

Irish Setter:
Huh?

Boxer:
Who cares? I can still play with my squeaky toys in the dark...

Mastiff:
We Mastiffs are NOT afraid of the dark.

Chihuahua:
"Yo quiero Taco Bulb."

Pointer:
I see it, the light bulb, there it is, there it is, right there....

Greyhound:
If it isn't moving, who cares?

Australian Cattle Dog:
First, I'll put all the light bulbs in a little circle....

Old English Sheep Dog:
Light bulb? I'm sorry, but I Don't see a light bulb. Maybe if you just trim the hair over my eyes a bit...

Samoyed:
Oh, sure, I can do that. I've seen the folks do it. I'll just move this chair so I can stand on it, and then I turn the bulb ... turn ... Dam! I sure wish I had opposable thumbs!

Hound Dog:
Zzzzzzzzzz...

illumin19
1st May 2010, 10:12 AM
Pull out the other switch (out of the box, not the wiring) and take another pic. of all the wires please with some illumination.

Grab a little volt meter and I'll walk you thru it............PM me if you want.




Electrician here

willie pete
1st May 2010, 03:12 PM
I want to give out a thanks for all the advice/help,...this is a follow up to close the file on this one, mission complete.. Closing Synopsis: I first determined out of the 3 wires protruding, which were actually "Live" (It was the top red one), upon doing so, I then determined that the blue wire was routed to the fixture, after shutting down the power, with a wire nut I then combined both red wires and a piece of wire I'd cut off the timer appliance, used this as a splice, removed approx. 1/4" of rubber wrap from the end, bent and formed it around the screw on the new switch, reconnected the blue wire to the new switch, turned on the power, and we now have a working light switch..

Thanks again to all.....