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View Full Version : Reporting on Harbor Freight solar panels installation......by me.



Ponce
22nd January 2011, 01:19 PM
Well guys, just finished setting up the Harbor Freight stands (two of them) for six of the solar panels, it was fun working on the roof my own LOL, I can only hope not to fall when placing them on the rack......everthing will be set up right next to my recliner, where I spend most of my time, and if power were to go off then all that I would have to do is to change to the solar right here from my chair.

Will let you know how it works once is finished..........the three extra 15W solar panels are my back up.

Ponce
22nd January 2011, 02:23 PM
Hotter than hell today and a perfect day to test the set up.........but........only 4 panels up today, by tomorrow I'll have the other 2 in place and then the whole thing connected..............this people are weird, instead of having all three panels connected to each other with the last one going to the control box they have each panel going to the control box, to the same place........so, I am going to connect the panels to each other and then the final one to the control box.....................and the same for the second set of panels because the control box controls only 45W which is three of the panels.

zap
22nd January 2011, 02:31 PM
Ponce you should read up on wiring, you'll fry something if you don't do it right. I will find another link for you.

http://www.partsonsale.com/learnwiring.htm

http://www.windsun.com/

Ponce
22nd January 2011, 02:48 PM
OK Zap, I am safe........+-+-+ to+ in controller
-_-_- to - in controller that's = 15+15+15= 45 Volts...........right?

Ponce <----------burning his house down.......better move my tp outside before testing this set up :conf:

Dogman
22nd January 2011, 03:05 PM
OK Zap, I am safe........+-+-+ to+ in controller
-_-_- to - in controller that's = 15+15+15= 45 Volts...........right?

Ponce <----------burning his house down.......better move my tp outside before testing this set up :conf:


If hooked up in parallel you would have 15v and 135 watts or 9 amps at 15v output.
If hooked up in series you would have 45v at 45 watts or 3 amps at 45v output.

http://www.solar4p ower.com/solar-power-basics.html

Quixote2
22nd January 2011, 03:11 PM
Series wired +-+-+- gives you 45 volts. The controller input wiring might be set to connect the three panels in series to give 45 volts or the controller input wiring may be set to connect the three panels in parallel which is 15 volts. Big difference to the electronics in the controller.

Don't know how the wiring was on your original panels, set up to give series or parallel.

Quixote2
22nd January 2011, 03:16 PM
If hooked up in parallel you would have 15v and 135 watts or 9 amps at 15v output.
If hooked up in series you would have 45v at 45 watts or 3 amps at 45v output.

http://www.solar4p ower.com/solar-power-basics.html


Not quite.

Three 15 watt panels hooked up in prarallel is 15 volts and 3 amps for 45 watts.
Three 15 watt panels hooked up in series is 45 volts and 1 amp for 45 watts.

The controller input jacks might be set for parallel or series wiring with three sets of leads, don't know without inspectiion or measuring with a multimeter.

Dogman
22nd January 2011, 03:20 PM
If hooked up in parallel you would have 15v and 135 watts or 9 amps at 15v output.
If hooked up in series you would have 45v at 45 watts or 3 amps at 45v output.

http://www.solar4p ower.com/solar-power-basics.html


Not quite.

Three 15 watt panels hooked up in prarallel is 15 volts and 3 amps for 45 watts.
Three 15 watt panels hooked up in series is 45 volts and 1 amp for 45 watts.

The controller input jacks might be set for parallel or series wiring with three sets of leads, don't know without inspectiion or measuring with a multimeter.


Ok I see, I was basing my figures at 15v and 45 watts per panel. and assumed the output per panel was 15v at 45 watts.
I misread the op!

Ponce
22nd January 2011, 03:40 PM
You guys are going to burn my house down..... >:(

One more time ........ each panel is of 15 wats......each panel has long cords the goes to the controller...the three + to one + in the control box......and three - to one - in the control box......I don't like it this way, so, what I want to do is + to + to + to control box.....and - to - to - to - in control box.

Quixote2
22nd January 2011, 03:43 PM
You guys are going to burn my house down..... >:(

One more time ........ each panel is of 15 wats......each panel has long cords the goes to the controller...the three + to one + in the control box......and three - to one - in the control box......I don't like it this way, so, what I want to do is + to + to + to control box.....and - to - to - to - in control box.


That will work, parallel wiring at the panels instead of at the controller. Total of 3 amps at 15 volts in.

Ponce
22nd January 2011, 04:23 PM
Well, all the panels are up and with the wires hanging down.....tomorrow I will connect al three + and all three from a set of panels and take a reading, should get 45 W........that's the Cuban way hahahahahahah.

I love to get into this kinds of trouble where I have to figured out what is going on, like when I would make models as a kid?, I would buy two of them and try to put one of them together without looking at the instructions.........that's the way to build the mind, now day? iPod and stupid games.

Ponce
23rd January 2011, 12:59 PM
EUREKA........now I can use my comp even with the power off.......everything works really go.....all that I have to do now is to run a telephone wire under my house and up next to my easy chair for the box connectiong to my provider.........the 12 volt controller that came with the kit has a 3v, 6v, 9v and 12v
jacks and a multi connector that you might need to connected to anything........it also has a slot that say 5v and it looks like one of those thingis that you have in a computer where you can see a small square plastic taking half of the slot (like for a mouse?).

It is cloudy now and is still working charging the battery.......by the way, the controller will turn off the charger at 14.1 so that it wont overcharge.....and it will also turn off everything at 11.1 when it needs to be charged again.

7th trump
23rd January 2011, 01:39 PM
Hey Ponce
Not trying to discourage you by any means, but those Harbor freight cells are not satisfactory cells.
You can get a lot better performing cell on ebay and make the panel yourself that each cell outputs 2-3 amps at .5 volts.
A 12v set up can output almost 48-72 amps.
What I do is this.
6 marine deep cycle 12v batteries being charged constantly by three panel.
I have #10 wire going through out my house to inverters for 120v appliances.
The fridge has an inverter screwed to the back that the fridge is plugged into as well as the lighting that I cannot get convert with the 12v 10 watt super bright Leds. (Modified existing light fixtures with these Leds.)
The only thing that is not is the washing machine and dryer and ceiling fans.

And to top this off a have an old 14 horse riding lawn mower engine that I have two 200 amp 12vdc alternators connected to.
I can virtually run the whole house with this simple little setup.
Neighbor is amazed to see the 14 horse motor run with ease (just above idle) with all the lights on in the house. His 50,000 watt generater gets a work out to keep his lights and sub pump running.

Ponce
23rd January 2011, 02:31 PM
I do have another 120w pannel on the roof for my alarm system and other things.......I am single so that I can control what I use........right now the typical power bill for this area is around $65.00 and mine is around $35.00.......most of that $35.00 bill is for taxes.

My frige and 2 freezers will be run for one hour per day (WTSHTF and no power) with my 5,000w generator.......water to house by gravity, fan for my Toyo heater with my present set up.....most of the time, if I have to, I'll be using one of my two 2 stroke generators, one gallon (or less) per eight hours.

I have an extra set of three panels that I bought as spare.

I most say that you do have a better set up than mine, at this time I am using 2 deep cycle 12v batteries but I'll probably get two more as spare, I want them without the acid inside.

7th trump
23rd January 2011, 04:58 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/

zap
23rd January 2011, 05:01 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


7th, do you think those things work I have that very model but I am on the fence about it.It didn't do anything for the old battery bank we had, (surrettes) If you equalize or boil the batteries doesn't that do the same thing?

Ponce
23rd January 2011, 05:56 PM
Thanks 7th, found a place in the next big town, will give them a call tomorrow ;D

7th trump
23rd January 2011, 06:15 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


7th, do you think those things work I have that very model but I am on the fence about it.It didn't do anything for the old battery bank we had, (surrettes) If you equalize or boil the batteries doesn't that do the same thing?

I just used that link. We use them on our golf carts at work, but those are 36vdc ones.

zap
23rd January 2011, 06:27 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


7th, do you think those things work I have that very model but I am on the fence about it.It didn't do anything for the old battery bank we had, (surrettes) If you equalize or boil the batteries doesn't that do the same thing?

I just used that link. We use them on our golf carts at work, but those are 36vdc ones.



Ok, so in your opinion do you think they do anything for the batteries?

vacuum
23rd January 2011, 06:31 PM
Hey Ponce
Not trying to discourage you by any means, but those Harbor freight cells are not satisfactory cells.
You can get a lot better performing cell on ebay and make the panel yourself that each cell outputs 2-3 amps at .5 volts.
A 12v set up can output almost 48-72 amps.

Wow 7th trump, I had no idea solar had gotten so cheap.

I'm seeing 3'x6' cells you're talking about running about $0.50/watt when you buy 100 - 200.

My rate is about 8 cents per kWh. This is $0.00008/(W*h)
The cells cost $0.5/W

Therefore, at $0.50/watt and $0.08/kWh, these cells will pay for themselves after:
($0.5/W)/($0.00008/(W*h)) = 6250 hours, or 260 days.

Obviously there are other costs such as batteries and inverters, as well as the fact that these cell's won't produce exactly what they are rated, and during winter they will produce much less but the reality is - they'll pay for themselves monetarily in only a couple years, and that doesn't count the value of being sell sufficient.

7th trump
23rd January 2011, 07:11 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


7th, do you think those things work I have that very model but I am on the fence about it.It didn't do anything for the old battery bank we had, (surrettes) If you equalize or boil the batteries doesn't that do the same thing?

I just used that link. We use them on our golf carts at work, but those are 36vdc ones.



Ok, so in your opinion do you think they do anything for the batteries?

Its been almost three years since we have been using them and not one battery has been replaced yet!
These carts get a workout everyday.
Also, remember that the crystals start forming on the plates on discharge not charging.

7th trump
23rd January 2011, 07:16 PM
Hey Ponce
Not trying to discourage you by any means, but those Harbor freight cells are not satisfactory cells.
You can get a lot better performing cell on ebay and make the panel yourself that each cell outputs 2-3 amps at .5 volts.
A 12v set up can output almost 48-72 amps.

Wow 7th trump, I had no idea solar had gotten so cheap.

I'm seeing 3'x6' cells you're talking about running about $0.50/watt when you buy 100 - 200.

My rate is about 8 cents per kWh. This is $0.00008/(W*h)
The cells cost $0.5/W

Therefore, at $0.50/watt and $0.08/kWh, these cells will pay for themselves after:
($0.5/W)/($0.00008/(W*h)) = 6250 hours, or 260 days.

Obviously there are other costs such as batteries and inverters, as well as the fact that these cell's won't produce exactly what they are rated, and during winter they will produce much less but the reality is - they'll pay for themselves monetarily in only a couple years, and that doesn't count the value of being sell sufficient.


The point is you still get about 12v but even at say 30 amps on a winter day is still good enough to run the led lights at night and charge the batteries the next day.
With flat screen tv's you are not draining that much power as a tube tv from yesteryear.
I dim the leds with pulsewidth modulators that reduce the current even more by turning off and on the led faster than the naked eye can notice.
If nobody here knows what I mean by 10watt LED lights the damn things are so bright at full rated current you cannot look into them. They are as bright as a welding arc and come in soft light or very bright.
They are about 10.00 a piece and have a 100,000 hour rating. The life should expand if a pwm is used and very good heat sinking

zap
23rd January 2011, 07:17 PM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


7th, do you think those things work I have that very model but I am on the fence about it.It didn't do anything for the old battery bank we had, (surrettes) If you equalize or boil the batteries doesn't that do the same thing?

I just used that link. We use them on our golf carts at work, but those are 36vdc ones.



Ok, so in your opinion do you think they do anything for the batteries?

Its been almost three years since we have been using them and not one battery has been replaced yet!
These carts get a workout everyday.
Also, remember that the crystals start forming on the plates on discharge not charging.


Thanks 7th, I went and put it back on the new bank.

Ponce
25th January 2011, 09:35 AM
And another important thing I didnt mention Ponce, but intended to was using a desulfinator for the battery bank.
I must have in battery maintainence. Most crucial piece of equipment to keep the weakest link strong.
http://batterylifesaver.com/


OK, got it.........$129.00 including shipping..........thanks ;D.......model BLS12/24C