Truck Question - Slow Radiator Leak in 98 Ford F150

[gunDriller]

I noticed about 2 weeks ago that my truck was dripping green stuff.

I had it pressurized this morning and we determined it was a hole in the radiator, caused by a rock hitting it.

I have driven 60 miles with it in this condition, the main side effect I notice is it drips green fluid when it's hot.


A new radiator is about $450

A used 99 F250 with Power Stroke Diesel - $4500.

I'm reluctant to spend more money on my 98 truck.


I'm wondering if I can limp along and just keep re-filling the radiator as needed. I gave it about a gallon a few days ago. It seems to be a slow leak.


How doable is it to drive it 300 miles, and to re-fill the radiator after the 300 miles ?

I guess that's like asking, how likely is the radiator leak to fail catastrophically - to suddenly become a big radiator leak and lose coolant all at once ?

I don't want to end up like those people you see on the side of the road, with the hood up and steam & smoke rising from the car.

However, I'm thinking that if I am religious about monitoring coolant level, I can end up like one of those people you see refilling their radiator all the time, which is not such a bad fate.


Since it's metal, I have a feeling that it is fairly inert, that is, unlikely to change quickly. Not like a radiator hose blowing. I was hoping it would just be a radiator hose.

[Golden]

Replace the radiator and/or hose(s). Anything less is bs.

[ximmy]

Dude, How can you even fool around with that... get it fixed man... there are other things to be concerned about.

[MNeagle]

Dude, How can you even fool around with that... get it fixed man... there are other things to be concerned about.

especially if it's your primary transportation...

[JJ.G0ldD0t]

Try patching it with a little JB weld.

[Joe King]

I don't want to end up like those people you see on the side of the road, with the hood up and steam & smoke rising from the car.

However, I'm thinking that if I am religious about monitoring coolant level, I can end up like one of those people you see refilling their radiator all the time, which is not such a bad fate.How do you suppose the former got that way? By starting out as the latter.

[Carbon]

If it's just a small hole, try adding some black pepper to your fluid... it'll clog the hole from the inside. Don't use too much - just add enough to plug the leak.

[MNeagle]

Now you've added to your post, I see you'd like to pollute the ground w/ your ever-leaking coolant.

I vote no.

[Dogman]

Way back in the day , this stuff worked very well for small radiator and other leaks. Not sure now!

But maybe try some.

http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/12963/Bars_Leak_Golden_Seal.jpeg

[osoab]

I had good luck with this many years ago.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bar-s-33-8-oz-professional-carbon-fiber-block-seal-head-gasket-and-cooling-sealant/_/N-262g?counter=0&itemIdentifier=68084_0_0_


http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/brl/HG-1/image/4/

[Golden]

Way back in the day , this stuff worked very well for small radiator and other leaks. Not sure now!

But maybe try some.

http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/data/12963/Bars_Leak_Golden_Seal.jpeg\

Do not put this or any other shit in your coolant system. DYODD

[Joe King]

Now you've added to your post, I see you'd like to pollute the ground w/ your ever-leaking coolant.

I vote no.
Well, doing that does save him the $450, after all. lol


BTW, where you gettin' that $450 radiator at? (http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/5290-05139670.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1997-1998+Ford+F150+Radiator+APDI+8011831+97-98+Ford+Radiator&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&fp=pp&gbm=a) Sounds 'spensive to me when one can be had for $115

[Glass]

I think $450 is a lot a well. I know it's a big vehicle but the radiator can't 4 times the size of a sedans. Is it a whole new unit for that money? Perhaps there's new hoses into the deal and some labour.

What about getting the core replaced? If the cap and the base are still in good nick, not too corroded that might be an cheaper option.

[Dick_Stabber]

Drain the radiator, clean the spot that is leaking with "break kleen " and put JB weld in the hole. Let set for 10 to 20 hours. problem solved.

[Santa]

I had a truck radiator I took to a radiator repair shop a few years back where they soldered the leak
and pressure steam cleaned the unit for something like $25....

[undgrd]

So...you don't want to spend $450 on a radiator for a 98 truck but are considering spending 10x that on a truck that's 1 year newer and most likely has the same creaks and groans your current truck?


Edit: Am I missing something ???



PS: My guess is $450 out the door which covers labor and hazmat disposal

[Large Sarge]

seem to remember that the stop leak stuff, was a powdered aluminum goop (if memory serves)

kind of melted into place when it hit the leak.

kind of like chemtrails for your car, neato.....

;)

[Mouse]

Pull the rad and get it soldered. Put it back in. Better yet, get a new rad installed (and hoses, and you might consider a new water pump) and keep all the old parts, have the rad soldered up and save all the old bits and pieces in a box in your garage. If things are bad, you have your own junkyard......

Do not throw out a car over a maintenance issue. If you buy anything that is quality, and properly maintain it, you will be surprised how long it lasts. I will probably never need to buy another car or truck. I might need bicycle parts though :)

[mightymanx]

You are going to have to get a little more percice with the location there are lots of different materials in the same radiator.

If it is brass you can solder it it is easy if you can sweat a copper pipe you are qualified to solder a radiator. If you have a brass radiator even repaired it is a shit load better than a plastic replacement keep it at all costs.

If it a plastic radiator you need a plastic repair kit
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex%C2%AE-Plastic-Tank-Repair-Kit/dp/B0007TQWM4

If it is on an aluminum part you can use JB weld

The secret to all of these is pull the radiator and draw a vacuum on it with a shop vac it will pull the bonding agent into the hole. limit the flow through the hose conection opposite where you put the shopvac do not block 100% that is too much vacuum.

If it is on a heat transfer tube you can remove some fin around it to access the area about an inch or so would do it will not hurt cooling noticably.

Now if you want to leave the radiator in the vehicle use this it is the real deal this shit works.
follow the instructions to the letter.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35520/10002/-1 for use with antifreeze

for with out this works the best you would have to flush first and make sure it's clean.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/35500/10002/-1


For battle field cooling tube repairs you can cut the affected tube roll it back and crimp it onto it self twice (so to folds) this will stop the leak and get you home.



I have used all the methods above sucessfully.

[Joe King]

Pull the rad and get it soldered. Put it back in. Better yet, get a new rad installed (and hoses, and you might consider a new water pump) and keep all the old parts, have the rad soldered up and save all the old bits and pieces in a box in your garage. If things are bad, you have your own junkyard......that's the correct answer. I was thinkin' this earlier and was going to post it, but Mouse beat me to it. lol



Do not throw out a car over a maintenance issue. If you buy anything that is quality, and properly maintain it, you will be surprised how long it lasts. I will probably never need to buy another car or truck. I might need bicycle parts though :)That's good advice too.

[Errosion Of Accord]

I had a truck radiator I took to a radiator repair shop a few years back where they soldered the leak
and pressure steam cleaned the unit for something like $25....

This is the best fix and it shouldn't cost much

[Dick_Stabber]

Every radiator in the last ten years +/- has been made of Bakelite/plastic and aluminum and is not repairable, other then adding an quick fix sealer or epoxy or soldered the aluminum (cost more then the repair).

Old school fixing of the radiator is gone.. You either replace it, or rigg it.

[mightymanx]

Every radiator in the last ten years +/- has been made of Bakelite/plastic and aluminum and is not repairable, other then adding an quick fix sealer or epoxy or soldered the aluminum (cost more then the repair).

Old school fixing of the radiator is gone.. You either replace it, or rigg it.

True but a 98 domestic truck it is a toss up as to what he has.

[Santa]

Every radiator in the last ten years +/- has been made of Bakelite/plastic and aluminum and is not repairable, other then adding an quick fix sealer or epoxy or soldered the aluminum (cost more then the repair).

Old school fixing of the radiator is gone.. You either replace it, or rigg it.

That radiator I was talking about was out of a 64 Chevy stepside. Lol

[po boy]

I asked a mechanic friend of mine what was the biggest engine killer, his reply overheating.

New rad and you have one less thing to worry about.

[freespirit]

just go to the wreckers and pick one up for probly $75.

shouldn't take more than an hour start to finish...