Ruger 10/22 hunting build

[big country]

I've been a big fan of Ruger 10/22 rifles for awhile. I own two. One older and one newer. Both shoot pretty well for a factory autoloader but I want it to be better.

I will be documenting my build of the rifle here in this post as it goes, I'm starting with a factory blued 10/22 carbine. I want this to be a hunting rifle still so weight is a major factor is some of my decisions. I will be primarily hunting squirrels with this rifle (also the occasional mouse that runs across my floor ;))

Here is the stock 10/22 I will be modifying.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0052.jpg

Up close of the action. The rifle came with this Weaver C4 scope (bought used) and I will be removing it. It works fine, seems to be OK but is nearly 40 years old and scope tech has come a long way since then (nitrogen filled, anti-fog, multi-coating lenses, etc)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0054.jpg

I installed the sling studs last night, notice I did NOT install them on the barrel band. First of all I will be removing this band with the new barrel I purchased and secondly the band puts pressure on the barrel and changes the Point of Impact, especially if wrapping your arm tightly in the sling and using it for offhand support (pulls down on the band and pulls down on the barrel)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0053.jpg

My big helper...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0051.jpg


Here are the items I have bought so far. None of them have arrived via UPS yet so no pictures except stock pics.

Mueller APV 4.5-14x40AO+ Sunshade $129.95 (http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Mueller_APV_Black_p/mapv451440.htm)
EGW Ruger 10-22 Picatinny Rail Scope Mount - 0 MOA $31.95 (http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/egw-461.htm)
Green Mountain Ruger 10/22 16.5" Fluted Sporter, Blue $122.95 (http://shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1503)
Tactical Solutions 10/22 Extended Magazine Release $33.95 (http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RSC&Product_Code=TS1022MR&Category_Code=EMR)
"Burris Signature Ring 1" Med Matte $32.98 (http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/product_p/bur420521.htm)

I plan on using the factory stock for now, many aftermarket stocks are made for bench rest shooters so options are limited in the "factory contour" replacement stock area. Most aftermarket stocks are made for .920 bull barrels, and there are only a few that I know of that are not.

I got the meuller scope as I have heard great things about their scopes for the price. Also, I got a little more magnification because there have been a few times I wished I had more then 9x on a squirrel rifle...though not too many. I have been using a fixed 4x for awhile, so the 4.5x on the low end should be fine. Also chose 40mm objective because squirrels around here like to run around dusk (heading home I presume...) and I shoot in lower light sometimes because of that.

The Barrel is one of the cheaper aftermarket barrels. I've been shooting Green Mountain barrels on my muzzleloaders for years and they make a quality product...in the USA. I've been happy with their products so far and hopefully this will not let me down either.

Extended mag release makes the mag changes a little easier...I no longer have to stick a fat finger in that little hole (thats what she said?)

The extended rail replaces the factory rail and extends out over the barrel a little to give me some more options for mounting the scope to get the perfect eye relief.

Burris signature rings have a neat insert that makes lapping scope rings unnecessary (how many people actually do this?). They seem to be the best ones I have seen on the market so far...not cheap, but I feel I can rely on them more then no name rings.

I also purchased a bolt buffer (not listed) for $6...not sure if it is a necessary upgrade, some like it, some dont...for $6 I doubt it will hurt and should eliminate some of the action clanking.

[LuckyStrike]

I look forward to seeing this project as it progresses. I also have a 10/22 and am looking to get a new barrel, new scope and mount and possibly trigger work. So your review will be very helpful to me and others I'm sure.

Good luck.

[big country]

I forgot to mention that I also plan on getting trigger work done here:
http://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com
I haven't paid for that yet so I forgot to mention it.

I hope my review/build will help others!

[hoarder]

I got rid of mine. How can you expect a rifle with a non-threaded barrel pressed into an aluminum receiver that doesn't have scope dovetails to keep it's zero? The fat stock makes it cumbersome to carry and the rifle is poorly balanced. The 10 shot rotary magazine and flawless feeding are it's strong points. I would at least oversize the scope base screw holes in the receiver, the stock ones are ridiculous small.
I replaced mine with a Marlin Model 60, which is much better balanced and sleek and has dovetail for scope rings, I put "Tech-Sites" aperture sights on mine, the 26" sight radius is awesome, but alas the feeding is not as flawless as the 10-22.

[big country]

Started on the work last night. No pictures in this post, but I did take a few. I'll come back and edit it later tonight. I have never taken my 10/22 apart before so this was a learning + building experience for me. I got the gun completely stripped, but did have to watch a youtube on how to get the bolt out..now that I know it is really easy.

The new barrel is about 2 inches shorter then the factory barrel and it is fluted. It definately weighs less. The barrel didn't fit in the stock though so I had to take some sandpaper to the inside channel and widen it just a hair. It took about 5 minutes of sanding for the barrel to slip in. THe V-Block design holds the barrel really well and solid. I was pulling and twisting on the barrel after I cinched it down and I could not see any movement. Also the aftermarket barrel was a little tighter sliding into the reciever so that will be an advantage over the factory barrel as well.

The new 10/22 factory rails have slots for weaver (I think...) scopes so they won't be moving on the rail. The rail is attached to the reciever which is in aluminum but if you follow the manufacturers instructions and DO NOT crank down on the screws you should be fine. They recommend like 18lbs torque...if you dont use a torque wrench and strip them out then how is that the guns fault? The rail attaches with 4 screws so I fail to see how they will ever let that rail move unless you strip them out. Blue loctite is also your friend! My aftermarket rail attaches the same way but is a little longer.

The Marlin 60 is a fine gun, but it is a FACT that anyone that wants to upgrade/modify should go with the Ruger. There are LOTS more options out there for modifying the ruger. If you're going to keep it factory stock then the marlin would be an OK choice too. Its like comparing a Mac to a PC. They are both fine computers, they both have their strengths...and one isn't necessarily better then the other. Get the one you are comfortable with.

[big country]

Here are the pictures I promised a while ago.

Side-by-Side comparison of the barrels (new barrel is attached to receiver)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0069.jpg

The new barrel was a little bit wider then the stock barrel and did NOT fit into my factory stock. I had to take some sandpaper to the factory stock. It was super easy to get the new barrel to fit, took maybe 4 minutes with 120 grit sand paper.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0067.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0068.jpg

For those that are not familiar with the barrel/receiver joint on a 10/22 I took some close-up pictures. (factory barrel still is attached in these pics)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0065.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/maverick2003/IMG_0066.jpg

The "V-block" with the two allen screws hooks into a notch on the barrel and then screws down tight into the receiver. The two screws are long with coarse threads and seem to hold it very well. I had tried twisting on the barrel and there is NO movement that I can detect. Also, the aftermarket barrel fits into the receiver much tighter then the factory barrel which should eliminate any play that may have been there originally.

Optionally you can get your barrel and receiver threaded by a gunsmith but that costs quite a bit of money, removes the ease of "drop in barrels", and would probably be easier and cheaper just to buy a better more expensive rifle.

My trigger is at the gunsmiths now, he emailed to say he received it and will start work on it around the 16th or so of this month. I will hopefully have it back by Christmas.

[hoarder]

The Marlin 60 is a fine gun, but it is a FACT that anyone that wants to upgrade/modify should go with the Ruger. There are LOTS more options out there for modifying the ruger. If you're going to keep it factory stock then the marlin would be an OK choice too. Very true. Modifying guns and trucks is a hobby for some. I have done my share of both and find that it makes more sense to buy what you want than to build it because it's simply not economical to compete with mass production. There is not much available in terms of high end .22 rifles, which is why 10/22 modifications are popular. If I wanted a high end .22 rifle I'd get a Thompson/Center .22 classic and have a gunsmith tune any feeding issues out and rework the trigger. At least then I would have a steel receiver which is threaded to the barrel.
There are trigger modifications for the Marlin Model 60 which makes it a pretty good rifle for the money. The new ones are cheaply made though.

[big country]

Just wanted to give an update on this:

I got the trigger back (I long time ago!) and it is AWESOME! I would highly recommend that trigger job on the Ruger.

I got the build finished and I went shooting for the first time. and ran into some major issues. First I'm having a light strike issue. About 4 out of 10 will not fire, but will fire if struck again with the firing pin. I haven't gotten around to troubleshooting this yet since it was cold the last few months and I didn't care that much since squirrel season is over. I will troubleshoot it soon when I have time and a warm day.

I have a few suspects

1st) barrel isn't seated all the way into the reciever (I dont think this is the case...I don't think it can go in any further)
2nd) Barrel (where it inserts into the reciever) is slightly shorter the the stock barrel effectively pulling the cartrige too far from the pin resulting in a light strike. I'll have to remove the barrel and measure with my calipers.
3rd) I didn't put it back together correctly (unlikely)
4th) I installed a bolt buffer and this is causing the bolt to not slide forward correctly (slower? not as much force?...I'll have to investigate)
5th) Magazine isn't setting in stock correctly after the modifications. Again, something I need to look at.

Anyone else have any thoughts or anything I should investigate?

[Heimdhal]

Your light strikes are most likley coming from your trigger job. Your sear and hammer springs are not strong enough. I would get a stock ruger trigger group, put it in and see if you dont have the same problems.

If it were to be a barrel issue, it would have to do with the chamber face not being to spec, as you say, putting the round to far ahead of the firing pin. However, most rim fires have some pretty long firing pin travel, so it wouldnt be my first guess, but it is possible

THe bolt problems wouldnt cause a light strike. THose would cause misfeeds/doublefeeds and ejection issues if anything. Magazines would also cause this issue.


Anyways, my very first suspect would be the trigger group, the sear/hammer springs more specificaly. WHat ammo are you using, as it could be that ammo. Grab a different type, or a different lot of the same type and try again. .22's arent the most reliable round and .22 rifles can be picky. My marlin does not like federal bulk very much :(

[big country]

The trigger man said he didn't touch the hammer spring at all and that the hammer should be swinging as fast and hard as it always was. *shrug*

I also was using 3 different types of ammo and it did it with all:
2 x CCI (one round nose and one hollow point)
Federal Lightning
Winchester bulk pack

I'll swap the trigger group in from my other 10/22 and test it out...Thanks for an idea of where to start!
So if it is the trigger job...the answer is a heavier hammer spring? Would a wider firing pin possibly help? I've seen some "extra wide" firing pins for sale that claim to help with light strikes.

[Heimdhal]

Hmmm.

Try the other stock trigger group and see, its worth a shot, but if he didnt change springs thats interesting. Check that the firing pin channel isnt gunked up (I highly suspect it is not, though, I think you've got that covered)

If it is NOT the trigger group I would instantly suspect the barrel NOT being seated all the way to the rear, as you stated in your first 2 guesses as well. I would look into that before investing into the thicker firing pin, I'd save your money for other things on that end, they just arent that necessary.

Did you have a smith install the barrel? Even a few .001's of an inch can cause failures. If you had a smith do it, bring it back to him and tell him the issues and dont accept it back until he has the gun firing consistently and reliably.

[LuckyStrike]

Any updates big country?

I'm coming very close to purchasing a bull barrel as well as a stock that will accommodate it and wondered if you are happy with yours.

[big country]

I am very happy with the barrel I have, though I suspect it is causing my fail to fires. I haven't had a chance to really mess with it again. Thanks for bumping this thread.

I did not have a smith install the barrel, not sure how it couldn't be installed correctly. It just presses into a hole and then there are two screws on a V-block that secure it. I'll take the barrel off to make sure there isn't some crud in there that is causing the barrel not to seat all the way or something. That is where I'm going to start.

I did kill two rabbits that were in my garden with it in its current condition though, so it is still functional and accurate, I just need to solve the light strike issue and I'll be as happy as a maggot on a gut wagon.

[Shami-Amourae]

I bought one a few weeks ago as my first rifle. I started a thread about buying my first rifle, and decided to start with a Ruger 10/22 and get used to it first before I made a decision on buying a bigger rifle.

I'm still upgrading my 10/22, and I'll share pictures maybe when I'm done. I'm waiting on stud/swivels for the stock so I can attach a strap.

[midnight rambler]

Your FTF may be due to excessive headspace.

[LuckyStrike]

I am contemplating going with a Kidd or Whistlepig Barrel, does anyone know if these justify a $200 price tag? Are they noticeably better than a $100 bull barrel?

Not trying to thread jack, big country if you think this deserves its own thread let me know.

[Heimdhal]

I am contemplating going with a Kidd or Whistlepig Barrel, does anyone know if these justify a $200 price tag? Are they noticeably better than a $100 bull barrel?

Not trying to thread jack, big country if you think this deserves its own thread let me know.

are you planning on doing competitions wit it, where super-sub MOA groups are required? If so, the added expense will probably be worth it. If its a general purpose .22, the bull is more than adequate. The stock barrels arent too bad either, for that matter. Many qual at appleseed with them, for what thats worth.

[LuckyStrike]

are you planning on doing competitions wit it, where super-sub MOA groups are required? If so, the added expense will probably be worth it. If its a general purpose .22, the bull is more than adequate. The stock barrels arent too bad either, for that matter. Many qual at appleseed with them, for what thats worth.

My barrel is relatively shyte, or I am. I had a Remington 522 as a kid (first gun) and it has horrible reviews, but damn that thing was so quiet and accurate. I love that gun. I got this gun used so who knows how many rounds have been through the barrel, not sure if that or the poop trigger pull is my problem. Regardless I am not where I need to be with it in terms of accuracy which is why I seek an upgrade.

I hate to spend a ton of money on a .22, but I shoot this 10/22 probably 100x more than anything else so it's worth it I suppose.

[Heimdhal]

My barrel is relatively shyte, or I am. I had a Remington 522 as a kid (first gun) and it has horrible reviews, but damn that thing was so quiet and accurate. I love that gun. I got this gun used so who knows how many rounds have been through the barrel, not sure if that or the poop trigger pull is my problem. Regardless I am not where I need to be with it in terms of accuracy which is why I seek an upgrade.

I hate to spend a ton of money on a .22, but I shoot this 10/22 probably 100x more than anything else so it's worth it I suppose.

Are you using factory sights or a scope? If a scope, how is it set up? Might not be the barrel OR you.

I've got a Marlin 795 (Mag Fed Model 60) and that thing is dead balls accurate with only a little tweaking and stock barrel. Problem was, the factory sites were total crap. Its got an optic on it now.

[milehi]

Are you using factory sights or a scope? If a scope, how is it set up? Might not be the barrel OR you.

I've got a Marlin 795 (Mag Fed Model 60) and that thing is dead balls accurate with only a little tweaking and stock barrel. Problem was, the factory sites were total crap. Its got an optic on it now.

I put Tech Sights on my Model 60 and they turned it into a whole new rifle. I also rotated the feed tube so the cartridge inlet is at 10:00 instead of 6:00 so I can feed faster(old style high cap tube. I also did the floppy disc spring upgrade on the trigger but I'll probably get a dip trigger kit since one of the mounting holes is broke.

[mightymanx]

Are you using factory sights or a scope? If a scope, how is it set up? Might not be the barrel OR you.

I've got a Marlin 795 (Mag Fed Model 60) and that thing is dead balls accurate with only a little tweaking and stock barrel. Problem was, the factory sites were total crap. Its got an optic on it now.

Same here on the 795 sights sucked weaver x4 and presto just like magic.

[Heimdhal]

Same here on the 795 sights sucked weaver x4 and presto just like magic.

Thats what did it for me, too. Put a half decent scope and set of rings on there and it really tightened up conisderably.

However, I also free floated my barrel and dropped the triggers pull weight down a bit, and a few other internal tweaks. Nothing major though.

[LuckyStrike]

Are you using factory sights or a scope? If a scope, how is it set up? Might not be the barrel OR you.

I've got a Marlin 795 (Mag Fed Model 60) and that thing is dead balls accurate with only a little tweaking and stock barrel. Problem was, the factory sites were total crap. Its got an optic on it now.

Scope mounted on a rail, which may be part of the problem because the 2 (or 4 can't remember) little screws that hold the rail down are not super super tight. Regardless the stock I have now will not accommodate a bull barrel anyway so if it's the barrel or the mount it will be rectified when I get a new barrel and stock.

When I say the gun is inaccurate, it isn't like wildly inaccurate, just noticeably less than my 522. Plus I'm using bulk 550 box ammo which I doubt helps my cause.

[milehi]

...and a few other internal tweaks. Nothing major though.

What kind of tweaks? I've polished every surface that touches another surface. Anything I'm missing? My M60 is a '78, so one of the next upgrades will be going from the old two piece feeedthroat to the current one piece. I don't care about the last shot hold open feature.

[big country]

Scope mounted on a rail, which may be part of the problem because the 2 (or 4 can't remember) little screws that hold the rail down are not super super tight. Regardless the stock I have now will not accommodate a bull barrel anyway so if it's the barrel or the mount it will be rectified when I get a new barrel and stock.

When I say the gun is inaccurate, it isn't like wildly inaccurate, just noticeably less than my 522. Plus I'm using bulk 550 box ammo which I doubt helps my cause.

A new stock isn't going to change the mount for the scope. That mounts directly on top of the receiver and doesn't ever touch the stock?

On my 10/22 there are 4 screws, I used blue loctite to put them in so I know they won't move. Don't crank down on them though because you can strip the receiver (then you'd have to drill a bigger hole and tap new threads). I don't like the stock rail and I bought an upgraded one with more positive hold on the rings. (The link is in my first post)

[big country]

Small update: shot the rifle again tonight, warmer outside temps seem to help. With cheap ammo, I still had light strikes on 2 out of 10 rounds. I also tried some federal automatch match grade target ammo and got 0 fail to fires with around 50 rounds shot, though 2 did sound funny when they fired they still went off and were not squibs.

So maybe the green mountain barrel is struggling with the cheap stuff? ( federal bulk, federal lightning, and cci minimags). I'm going to order some more quality ammo and see if I have issues with it.

I'm not happy that its not shooting the cheap stuff well...

[LuckyStrike]

A new stock isn't going to change the mount for the scope. That mounts directly on top of the receiver and doesn't ever touch the stock?

On my 10/22 there are 4 screws, I used blue loctite to put them in so I know they won't move. Don't crank down on them though because you can strip the receiver (then you'd have to drill a bigger hole and tap new threads). I don't like the stock rail and I bought an upgraded one with more positive hold on the rings. (The link is in my first post)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/645458/promag-archangel-556-adjustable-rifle-stock-system-ruger-10-22-synthetic-black

That is one of the stocks I'm looking at.


I also put loctite in there, but they were this way when I got them.

[Heimdhal]

What kind of tweaks? I've polished every surface that touches another surface. Anything I'm missing? My M60 is a '78, so one of the next upgrades will be going from the old two piece feeedthroat to the current one piece. I don't care about the last shot hold open feature.

Theres some trigger work to do. It involved bending and cutting some key springs though. I messed up my first one, the trigger was very light with a short travel, but the hammer spring was over modded and didnt have the umph to reliable set off all but the best rim fire cartridges. Even the good ones were iffy. I returned it to the factory hammer spring since then and the reliability is back up, but my trigger is a little heavier. I havent had a chance to get back in and re work it (just not as much, this time). :)

[Mouse]

I love to mess around with stuff, but did you not just make a 150 dollar, fairly good rifle into an unreliable POS? To the OP. Why not just have someone build you one. I have a Mexican strat that I spent a zillion hours on to get it right and had to replace EVERYTHING along the way and it's still a fucking Mexican strat. I could have just bought an American strat that some other fool modded up and been done with it.

Flame away, I am just not sure why you would start with a cheap gun trying to get a sniper quality rifle. The squirrels are laughing for sure.

Peace

Disclosure: I have a cheapass plastic sighted Marlin 60 that works just fine even with the shittiest possible scope you can imagine. I didn't change a damn thing. It has its place.

[big country]

I won't flame you, but it was more of a hobby for me to try this out. I wanted to see what I could do with it and I wanted to see if I could do it myself. Yes, its picky now with its ammo right now, but I still plan on fixing that and I DO think that it is fixable.

it is more accurate now with the better ammo, though I suppose since controls weren't run that it could have nothing to do with the new barrel and just be more accurate since it is quality ammo...

I have all of the old parts so I could make it "reliable" again if I lose interest or decide I cannot fix it for whatever reason. The only thing that could not be restored to the factory is the trigger job that was professionally done, I believe a factory trigger set is $50 or less if I need to restore that for whatever reason.