Can you school me on Shocks?

[zap]

Hey Guys,

I need to learn about shocks for a 2004 Nissian Titan, with a 6 inch lift, I have been reading but I need it to be more cut and dry, black and white... I should say, ( because I am thick)

I can hear the front end shocks banging, so I am not driving that truck, do I have to get shocks all the way around? They have been on there for about 5 years, but I don't drive that truck often only when its rainy or really muddy, how long do shocks go? How do you tell for sure its the shocks? what are the best one s to get ...these say pro comp ES9000's, (I think my foreman can put them on) Do you have to compress the springs to put them on?( I dont think so)

anyhow any info would be greatly appreciated !

Thanks guys!

[Golden]

Possibly but most likely not. Depends on condition of rears. Lifetime depends on usage and road/weather conditions. Sorry, I've no exp. w/ Rancho ES9000's. Yes, springs will need compressed. Good luck!

P.S. You might want to search a Titan forum for direct correlation?

[Dogman]

5 years seems sort of short unless that truck is being driven really hard. Can not help you much, the front if need to be compressed to install sounds like McPherson struts/shocks. I may be wrong, been a while since I have messed with them, but if you replace them do it all around OR in pairs of front or on the back.

You may be able to just replace just the bad one. Have someone check and see just what is banging, it maybe something else?

Others can help better than me I thinky!

[LuckyStrike]

Hey Guys,

I need to learn about shocks for a 2004 Nissian Titan, with a 6 inch lift, I have been reading but I need it to be more cut and dry, black and white... I should say, ( because I am thick)

I can hear the front end shocks banging, so I am not driving that truck, do I have to get shocks all the way around? They have been on there for about 5 years, but I don't drive that truck often only when its rainy or really muddy, how long do shocks go? How do you tell for sure its the shocks? what are the best one s to get ...I think those are Rancho ES9000's, (I think my foreman can put them on) Do you have to compress the springs to put them on?( I dont think so)

anyhow any info would be greatly appreciated !

Thanks guys!

First let me say that I am not familiar with the front end set up on the Titans. But I would say a lot of it depends on your lift, you may have had a component fail and without knowing what kind of lift you had there is no way to know. Do you have any more details on the suspension components?

[BrewTech]

I would be looking at lift components first as the source of the noise. Aftermarket lifts are notorious for coming loose or breaking, regardless of manufacturer.

Shocks are generally just along for the ride... coil spring compression is not usually necessary, but you will want to support the suspension when R&Ring them.

[General of Darkness]

Zap, this will be the first time that I make a DEMAND that someone listen to me.

I had those piece of shit Ranchos shocks, Rancho etc makes decent suspension systems, they make horrible shocks.

I did a TON of research on shocks and the Bilstein 5100 series are awesome. I have a 6 inch lift on the Dodge with 37 inch tires and the Bilsteins ride like a Mercedes.

Get the Bilstein 5100's an you can thank me later. ;)

[zap]

I am listening General, but now I am wondering if its something else with the lift kit. So I am going to try to explain what I am feeling hearing.

Ok, get in and start driving, hit a little bump... bang, sounds like the tire is bouncing up and down all willy nily , I had one of the guys drive it and he thought is was the shocks banging, we took the tire off and everything looks good, nothing is loose, bearings are good, everything is tight? I don't know.

[freespirit]

are you getting lots of "bump-steer"?

[General of Darkness]

Zap what's the mileage?

What's the mileage since the lift?

What color are the shocks? If they're white, they're cheap ass lift shocks that come with the system

[Dogman]

Check your ball joints!

Old test for shocks, push down on the hood near the tires, the truck should only bounce once or so. If shocks are bad that side will seem to float , (hard to describe) Need large person or several to do on heavy duty truck. (thinky?)

But ball joints will bang if hitting bumps, jack the truck up so the tire is off the ground,(safely) and try shaking the tire/wheel up and down

http://www.ehow.com/about_5438152_car-suspension-problems.html

http://www.ehow.com/list_6065793_symptoms-car-strut-problems.html

[zap]

LOL General, 102,000, I don't know since the lift prolly 50K , yep they are white and say pro-comp es 9000.

and I am so ignorant, a friend of mines husband can prolly look/listen to it as he built his own 4x4 jeep, and just got back from a 4x4 party in the Sierrra's. thank you!

[General of Darkness]

Dogman while I agree with you, it really depends on hitting shit. She's got an IFS system so it's tough to diagnose without having the truck in front of me, and I'm not a mechanic, but I do know suspension systems. ;)

Zap have your friend put a jack under the cross member and lift up one side of the front the end. Not too much but an inch or so, and put a crowbar under the tire and lift up to see what the ball joints do. Is there's a lot a play/give. With IFS, mileage, and a suspension lift, my guess it's shocks. Most lifts come with ok/shitty shocks.

Zap you do whatever you want, but that's my guess. Get some Bilsteins 5100 series models and you'll be fine.

[freespirit]

general, when you're right, you're right.

[milehi]

Zap, I had a '04 Titan 4X4 quad cab. It was bought back under California's Lemon Law. Six front brake jobs; three in the back. Rear end went out driving away from a parking lot. It was replaced with a new rear end with the Al diff cover. There were othr problems, but the weirdest was that the rear shackle unraveled. I missed if you said front or rear but If the bed is making noise, look there.

[Camp Bassfish]

My first thought would be ball joints as well.

[hoarder]

Lift kits = nothing but trouble. If I were you, I would convert the truck back to stock and sell that junk and fat tires to some kid that thinks it's cool.

[BrewTech]

Lift kits = nothing but trouble. If I were you, I would convert the truck back to stock and sell that junk and fat tires to some kid that thinks it's cool.

I would agree, I hated dealing with lift kits when I was wrenching (so I didn't).

However, I have seen GoD's truck, and it appears to be done right, and if he says it performs well, then it does. He is right about the Ranchos (junk)

That suspension needs to be fully inspected by someone that knows how to do it... being a driveability tech, I never even considered myself competent enough. I hated suspension work.

Check those ball joints! GoD's post 12 explains perfectly how to do it.

[freespirit]

Lift kits = nothing but trouble. If I were you, I would convert the truck back to stock and sell that junk and fat tires to some kid that thinks it's cool.

Nothing wrong with lift kits provided you get a good one and have it installed by someone who knows WTF they are doing. Our new work truck is an '05 ford quad cab with 6" lift and 37" tires. It needs shocks up front but otherwise handles like a dream.

[hoarder]

Nothing wrong with lift kits provided you get a good one and have it installed by someone who knows WTF they are doing. Our new work truck is an '05 ford quad cab with 6" lift and 37" tires. It needs shocks up front but otherwise handles like a dream.A "good lift kit" does nothing to solve the problems of driveshaft angles and high center of gravity. I use 4 wheel drive on a daily basis. The only modification on any of my five 4x4 vehicles is replacing aspect ratio 70 tires with 75's. Fat tires help in sand and bottomless mud, otherwise they are a liability.

[freespirit]

there are spacers etc for just this problem...typically they are only required when lifting a vehicle more than 3 inches. anything over that and you start needing extra parts like adapters and spacers, etc.

[hoarder]

there are spacers etc for just this problem...typically they are only required when lifting a vehicle more than 3 inches. anything over that and you start needing extra parts like adapters and spacers, etc.Tapered axle spacers solve the problem of driveshaft angle on the rear axle, but not the transmission and transfer case yokes. Besides, both yokes should be on the same plane. Ideal driveshaft angularity is between 2 and 7 degrees with both yokes paralel.

[zap]

Thanks all for the help, (I think it is just shocks?)

I got in the bed of the truck and jumped up and down and I heard the noise, What's his name can't look at it til next week but I will report the findings!

[Dogman]

So was the noise in the back? Most here thought it was from the front end. If in the back of the truck that is a whole different bowl of gumbo!

[freespirit]

Tapered axle spacers solve the problem of driveshaft angle on the rear axle, but not the transmission and transfer case yokes. Besides, both yokes should be on the same plane. Ideal driveshaft angularity is between 2 and 7 degrees with both yokes paralel.


you're absolutely correct hoarder, however, a competent builder could easily fabricate new mounts to allow trans and t-case to be properly aligned. problem solved...

...high center of gravity can be compensated for with outset rims...

[zap]

So was the noise in the back? Most here thought it was from the front end. If in the back of the truck that is a whole different bowl of gumbo!

I hear it on the passengers side and in the back too.

[Dogman]

I hear it on the passengers side and in the back too. Where is your muffler? Tail pipe? Have one of the guys get under and shake them, check the mountings.

[hoarder]

you're absolutely correct hoarder, however, a competent builder could easily fabricate new mounts to allow trans and t-case to be properly aligned. problem solved...Transmission and transfer case yokes exit parallel to the crankshaft. If angles are in excess of 7 degrees, the builder would have to lower the engine, transmission and transfer case several inches.


...high center of gravity can be compensated for with outset rims...But the "go anywhere" capability would be decreased because the vehicle would be wider and the durability of spindles and wheel/axle bearings decreased due to the leverage imposed against them by the offset wheels..

[freespirit]

Transmission and transfer case yokes exit parallel to the crankshaft. If angles are in excess of 7 degrees, the builder would have to lower the engine, transmission and transfer case several inches.But the "go anywhere" capability would be decreased because the vehicle would be wider and the durability of spindles and wheel/axle bearings decreased due to the leverage imposed against them by the offset wheels..

so what if you went say 3" susp. lift and 4" body lift... no spacers etc., (under 3") , and the 4" body? that would allow for larger tire sizes and greater wheel travel. the HCOG would be minimal and easily compensated for with slight outset on the rims, and angle change would be within tolerance, would it not?

[hoarder]

so what if you went say 3" susp. lift and 4" body lift... no spacers etc., (under 3") , and the 4" body? that would allow for larger tire sizes and greater wheel travel. the HCOG would be minimal and easily compensated for with slight outset on the rims, and angle change would be within tolerance, would it not?How much angularity could be calculated by drawing the entire drive train out with a piece of chaulk on a concrete slab and using a protractor. That's how we did it when we shortened frames on semi trucks. A 4" body lift would mean lengthening the steering column and wiring and brake lines among other things. All this for bigger tires which will change the gearing, IOW first and reverse will be geared so high you will do a lot of clutch feathering if it has a manual tranny. Driving a tall vehicle means better visibility, but on rough roads it means being thrown left and right with every bump.

If you're compromising that many design factors for larger tires, you have to ask if you want the tires for looks or performance. Taller tires are beneficial, wider tires usually not.

Decades ago I was influenced by Jew-car magazines and the shiny car materialism they inspired. 90% of modifications people do just don't pan out when you do a cost/benefit analysis. All my 4x4 vehicles are ugly and basically stock. I love the way they perform.

Sorry for the derail, Zap.

[zap]

No worries Hoarder, I learn alot from all you guys !

[Dick_Stabber]

Dont forget to check your sway bar links, they attach the sway bar from the suspension to the frame.




just looked this up... http://www.clubtitan.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59779

[LuckyStrike]

Get the Bilstein 5100's an you can thank me later. ;)

I have 5100's as well, so far so good.

[General of Darkness]

How much angularity could be calculated by drawing the entire drive train out with a piece of chaulk on a concrete slab and using a protractor. That's how we did it when we shortened frames on semi trucks. A 4" body lift would mean lengthening the steering column and wiring and brake lines among other things. All this for bigger tires which will change the gearing, IOW first and reverse will be geared so high you will do a lot of clutch feathering if it has a manual tranny. Driving a tall vehicle means better visibility, but on rough roads it means being thrown left and right with every bump.

If you're compromising that many design factors for larger tires, you have to ask if you want the tires for looks or performance. Taller tires are beneficial, wider tires usually not.

Decades ago I was influenced by Jew-car magazines and the shiny car materialism they inspired. 90% of modifications people do just don't pan out when you do a cost/benefit analysis. All my 4x4 vehicles are ugly and basically stock. I love the way they perform.

Sorry for the derail, Zap.

Seriously? Hoarder I understand what you're saying but don't be so fucking flippant about it. Soooooooo many thing come to mind when lifting a vehicle, number ONE the wheel base. Where's the transfer-case located etc. Please don't make blanket statements.

As an example a CJ5 with a 6 inch lift is going to have TONS of geometry issues compared to my quadcab.

[joboo]

Ditto on the bilsteins for shock selection. I've installed bilstein monotubes on my last 4 vehicles, and they are excellent.

The difference between monotube v.s. twin tube design:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrUuESt2Q9I

Distinctly superior.

[LuckyStrike]

Seriously? Hoarder I understand what you're saying but don't be so fucking flippant about it. Soooooooo many thing come to mind when lifting a vehicle, number ONE the wheel base. Where's the transfer-case located etc. Please don't make blanket statements.

As an example a CJ5 with a 6 inch lift is going to have TONS of geometry issues compared to my quadcab.

I think you can agree though with hoarders point, very rarely if ever do 4x4 trucks benefit from being lifted under any circumstance. Nor is it necessary for 99% of people.

[General of Darkness]

I think you can agree though with hoarders point, very rarely if ever do 4x4 trucks benefit from being lifted under any circumstance. Nor is it necessary for 99% of people.

LS oh absolutely. I use to offroad all the damn time and that was with a 4 banger Nissan with 33 inch tires. The only mod I had was aftermarket torsion bars and the front end was kranked up. It worked great. I have yet to take the dodge offroad, but I'm systematically building it go anywhere based on the plateform. Straight front axle, Cummins motor and on and on, the only thing left for me is a locking front diff. When the rubber meets the road, and gas was unavailable, I could still go where ever the hell I wanted to go on the oil used to fry McDonald's french fries.

Hoarder threw a left jab and I'm just counter punching.

[hoarder]

Seriously? Hoarder I understand what you're saying but don't be so fucking flippant about it. Soooooooo many thing come to mind when lifting a vehicle, number ONE the wheel base. Where's the transfer-case located etc. Please don't make blanket statements.

As an example a CJ5 with a 6 inch lift is going to have TONS of geometry issues compared to my quadcab.Agreed. If you read some of the Jew 4x4 hotrod mags, you will see what I mean about "cool" shiny object materialism and resource wasting modifications. The less time spent reading them and the more time spent out in the boonies, the more you will understand my point.

A bone stock Tundra has more ground clearance than most Hollywood "monster trucks".

[General of Darkness]

A bone stock Tundra has more ground clearance than most Hollywood "monster trucks".

No it doesn't. I don't mind bantering about stuff, but that's a fucking blatant lie. I don't mind some exaggerating , but you're a liar in this case, unless this world of physics ceases to exist on this planet, and if it does I apologize.

All the while Zaps thread has turned into a pissing contest

[Skirnir_]

I've considered getting a Tundra, and may jack it up. What say ye?

[LuckyStrike]

I've considered getting a Tundra, and may jack it up. What say ye?

I say you're trollin.

[General of Darkness]

I say you're trollin.

No no no. He's going to pay for it with communist notes doused with goyim blood, then he'll troll it down the road.

[Skirnir_]

I'm serious: I don't trust the quality of domestic automobiles, and I found an older one for sale with relatively low mileage.

[hoarder]

No it doesn't. I don't mind bantering about stuff, but that's a fucking blatant lie. I don't mind some exaggerating , but you're a liar in this case, unless this world of physics ceases to exist on this planet, and if it does I apologize.

All the while Zaps thread has turned into a pissing contestA jacked up "monster truck may have a lot of clearance under the tranny, but the steering arm and differential hang low. Next time you see a Tundra, look underneath.

[LuckyStrike]

A jacked up "monster truck may have a lot of clearance under the tranny, but the steering arm and differential hang low. Next time you see a Tundra, look underneath.

http://image.dieselpowermag.com/f/10942638/0810dp_05_z+2002_dodge_ram_cummins_monster_truck+r ight_rear.jpg

I have a Tundra and I don't have that kind of clearance. My front is lifted a couple inches and my bumper is probably at that rear axle.

[Neuro]

I've considered getting a Tundra, and may jack it up. What say ye?
How tall are you?

[Skirnir_]

How tall are you?

181cm

[Glass]

I saw the F150 Raptor on an episode of Top Gear USA. Over the top but still impressive. Lot of go anywhere power there. Loaded? who knows. Fuels got to be the kicker though. Ability to burn multiple fuels will be important.

[LuckyStrike]

I saw the F150 Raptor on an episode of Top Gear USA. Over the top but still impressive. Lot of go anywhere power there. Loaded? who knows. Fuels got to be the kicker though. Ability to burn multiple fuels will be important.

I don't know exactly what subject we are on now, but yeah diesel for this reason I think is superior. Sure in SHTF you can make ethanol about as easy as bio diesel, but bio diesel is only cheap and easy if you have access to cooking oil, if you don't than it is more complicated, whereas ethanol wouldn't be substantially more difficult post SHTF.

Some people run older diesels on used motor oil, which would be awesome.

[zap]

well since nobody can look at my truck til next week ,I got under and did it myself I have no patience really pisses me off tht people are so freaking useless, If I need something done I ******* sure better do it myself and cant depend on anyone ...... done ranting

anyhow there is some piece broke by the tire I have no idea what it called but I took it off and I will try to post a pic.

Dont have time to mess with pictures right now its to hard, it has bushings on both ends tho. see ya all tonight

[Dogman]

Zap has sent this picture of what is broke on her truck.

So here it is, to me it looks like part of the suspension but I am not familiar with newer anything when it comes to trucks. ;D


So what is it?

Will try again with the pic. Thanks MNeagle.

3648

[MNeagle]

Zap has sent this picture of what is broke on her truck.

So here it is, to me it looks like part of the suspension but I am not familiar with newer anything when it comes to trucks. ;D

http://gold-silver.us/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3647&d=1347054333&thumb=1&stc=1


So what is it?

can't see a thing...

[hoarder]

Zap has sent this picture of what is broke on her truck.

So here it is, to me it looks like part of the suspension but I am not familiar with newer anything when it comes to trucks. ;D

http://gold-silver.us/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3647&d=1347054333&thumb=1&stc=1So what is it?It's a little white box with a red X in it.

[Dogman]

can't see a thing...


It's a little white box with a red X in it.


Think I have found a way NOT to insert pictures. Can it be seen now? Think it can.

[Neuro]

Zap has sent this picture of what is broke on her truck.

So here it is, to me it looks like part of the suspension but I am not familiar with newer anything when it comes to trucks. ;D


So what is it?

Will try again with the pic. Thanks MNeagle.

3648
I don't know, but get a new thing like that and put it where the old thing like that were, that should fix it!

[Dogman]

I don't know, but get a new thing like that and put it where the old thing like that were, that should fix it!


Hanger on the left is broken!

[MNeagle]

I don't think I'd drive it until that piece is replaced...

[Dogman]

Did some digging, looks like it is one of the sway bar link brackets, that broke. (Thinky?)


If a replacement bracket can not be easily found, a good welder/fabricator could fix it.

[Dick_Stabber]

Is that from the front or rear? Looks like a track bar. Sway links are not that beefy.

[Dogman]

Is that from the front or rear? Looks like a track bar. Sway links are not that beefy. She says the front. Someone told her it was a idler arm, but it does not look like any that I see on the web, I'm having fun trying to id it (nothing better to do)

2004 titan with 4" lift.

[hoarder]

Yeah, it's a sway bar link. It's OK to drive with it broken, just a little more body lean around corners.

[Dogman]

Yeah, it's a sway bar link. It's OK to drive with it broken, just a little more body lean around corners.


3650

Looks like the bottom bracket broke. Looks like not so hard of a fix?

Here is a forum thread bitching about having problems with them.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-suspension/79988-anyone-having-problems-sway-bar-links.html



Zap does it look like this on the other side?

3651

[General of Darkness]

There seems to be a lot recalls on the Nissan.

Zap print this out, take it to a dealer and have them fix this.

2004 Nissan Titan Suspension Recall 10E019000 NHTSA: Action Number: N/A Service Bulletin Number: 10E019000


Report Date:
May 20, 2010
Component:
Suspension
Potential Units Affected:
1873
Manufacturer:
Nissan North America, Inc.



Summary: Nissan is recalling certain front and rear lower links, p/nos. 54501zq00a, 54500zq00a, 551a1zq00a, 551a0zq00a , 54501ea00a, 54500ea00a, 551a1ea500, 551a0ea500, 54501zr00a, and 54500zr00a, sold between november 25, 2009 and may 14, 2010 as replacement parts for model year 2004 through 2010 titan, armada, and qx56, and model years 2005 through 2010 frontier, xterra, and pathfinder vehicles. The lower control link assembly has two cylindrical collars forming the inboard attachment points to the chassis. Due to an improper welding process some collars may contain welds that do not meet strength specifications.

Consequence: If the collar weld separates, the vehicle handling will deteriorate, possibly resulting in a vehicle crash.

Remedy: Nissan will notify owners and dealers will replace any affected lower link free of charge. The safety recall began on july 12, 2010. Owners may contact nissan at 1-800-647-7261.

Notes: Owners may also contact the national highway traffic safety administration's vehicle safety hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (tty 1-800-424-9153), or go to <a href=http://www. Safercar. Gov>http://www. Safercar. Gov</

http://www.automd.com/recall/campaign_c85729/

[Dick_Stabber]

as hoarder said, it's a sway bar link. :)

[BrewTech]

All the while Zaps thread has turned into a pissing contest

It happens every time in automotive threads. I learned that early back at GIM1. That's why I jump in, make a short comment, and jump right back out again in spite of the fact I'm one of very few, if any, automotive professionals on this board.

I get the impression people are copy/pasting (from a different source) a lot of their posts when it comes to automotive, but that's cool.

Some of the posts are just downright hilarious, but they look good on paper.

[skid]

I'm glad that Zap's problem has been solved, but back to the pissing contest...

If you think that a reasonable suspension lift won't help off road performance you have never done any serious off roading. Ditto with stock tires vs reasonably larger more aggressive tires. The best thing is a locker in the rear, and a limited slip in the front diff.

Also from a Tundra driver, get a different truck if you want to do any serious off roading. The Tundra is a slug off road, and the traction control is simply abysmal...

[freespirit]

my old truck was an '87 chevy custom deluxe w/350, 4 speed stick, 3" lift and 33x12.5" rubber on 15" steel rims, and it could go almost anywhere. i once had to turn around on a narrow trail with ditches on both sides to avoid a water crossing, and since i was longer than the trail was wide, i just backed it down into the right hand ditch to make a 3 point turn and rolled the rear driver's wheel over a fallen tree about 16" in diameter... i thought i was gonna be screwed, but i tossed it into 4-low grabbed first gear, and it just walked right over it and up out of the ditch, no problem.

let's see you do that with a stock truck.

[BrewTech]

Yeah, it's a sway bar link. It's OK to drive with it broken, just a little more body lean around corners.

Not the sway bar link.

Edit - my bad. Forgot that it was 4WD.

[mick silver]

here you go ...

[zap]

Not the sway bar link.

Edit - my bad. Forgot that it was 4WD.

Ok so where do I get one other then the dealership ? I just need the bracket, I have been searching online . I dont want to buy the wrong thing.

I can find all kinds of sway bar links not the bracket!

[freespirit]

Ok so where do I get one other then the dealership ? I just need the bracket, I have been searching online . I dont want to buy the wrong thing.

I can find all kinds of sway bar links not the bracket!

try your local auto wreckers

[zap]

I was trying to find brackets online, I cant find them anywhere.

[freespirit]

i doubt you will Zap.

i tried searching for somewhere to buy leather/power/heated front seats for my grand cherokee. after two days of online searching, i gave up.

lots available at the wreckers though, condition may vary, lol

my point being it will be the best place to look for parts you cant find online... let us know how you make out.

[MNeagle]

Start calling junkyards/autoparts salvage places (may be what fs means by 'wreckers'?)

[mick silver]

There seems to be a lot recalls on the Nissan.

Zap print this out, take it to a dealer and have them fix this.

2004 Nissan Titan Suspension Recall 10E019000

NHTSA: Action Number: N/A Service Bulletin Number: 10E019000


Report Date:
May 20, 2010
Component:
Suspension
Potential Units Affected:
1873
Manufacturer:
Nissan North America, Inc.


Summary: Nissan is recalling certain front and rear lower links, p/nos. 54501zq00a, 54500zq00a, 551a1zq00a, 551a0zq00a , 54501ea00a, 54500ea00a, 551a1ea500, 551a0ea500, 54501zr00a, and 54500zr00a, sold between november 25, 2009 and may 14, 2010 as replacement parts for model year 2004 through 2010 titan, armada, and qx56, and model years 2005 through 2010 frontier, xterra, and pathfinder vehicles. The lower control link assembly has two cylindrical collars forming the inboard attachment points to the chassis. Due to an improper welding process some collars may contain welds that do not meet strength specifications.

Consequence: If the collar weld separates, the vehicle handling will deteriorate, possibly resulting in a vehicle crash.

Remedy: Nissan will notify owners and dealers will replace any affected lower link free of charge. The safety recall began on july 12, 2010. Owners may contact nissan at 1-800-647-7261.

Notes: Owners may also contact the national highway traffic safety administration's vehicle safety hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (tty 1-800-424-9153), or go to <a href=http://www. Safercar. Gov>http://www. Safercar. Gov</

http://www.automd.com/recall/campaign_c85729/

if the truck been jack up the dealer will not fix it . to many after market parts

[hoarder]

I'm glad that Zap's problem has been solved, but back to the pissing contest...

If you think that a reasonable suspension lift won't help off road performance you have never done any serious off roading. Ditto with stock tires vs reasonably larger more aggressive tires. The best thing is a locker in the rear, and a limited slip in the front diff.

Also from a Tundra driver, get a different truck if you want to do any serious off roading. The Tundra is a slug off road, and the traction control is simply abysmal...I'm not out of piss yet, bubba. The limiting factor in clearance is the differential, steering arms, shock mounts and parking brake cables. This is where Tundras really shine.
I had an F250 with 33x12.5 tires ages ago. The parking brake cables got torn off, steering arm bent twice and got stuck many times. All that junk was mounted low. If you put tires on that are 3" taller, you only gain 1 1/2" clearance and it ain't worth it for all the mods you have to do.
A stock Tundra has 11.9" of clearance, which is way more than my old F250 had with 33's and a 2" lift. Piss away.

[freespirit]

clearance is not the only reason to add lift and larger tires. lift/tires and related suspension components will allow for greater wheel travel to maintain traction in less-than-optimal conditions, and larger tires with greater wheel travel will allow max traction when navigating over obstacles. (ie rock crawling, or other serious offroading)

[Dick_Stabber]

I was trying to find brackets online, I cant find them anywhere.

Just have the old one welded back on.

[hoarder]

clearance is not the only reason to add lift and larger tires. lift/tires and related suspension components will allow for greater wheel travel to maintain traction in less-than-optimal conditions, and larger tires with greater wheel travel will allow max traction when navigating over obstacles. (ie rock crawling, or other serious offroading)A taller tire does have it's advantages. Tundra owners sometimes replace their 70 series tires with 75's but after that you reach a point of diminishing returns as I have explained in earlier posts.

To me, "serious offroading" means day to day use in ranching, hunting etc. as opposed to city boys who spend countless hours of idolatry polishing their jacked up idols and take them out once a month for "fun". I use 4WD daily due to steep terrain or snow and thousands of miles a year on rough logging roads. I plow over 2 miles of steep narrow driveway in the winter with my 3/4 ton truck and put over a thousand miles a year on ATV's. Kids from a nearby city bring out their jacked up modifieds to play but they're too wide and pretty for overgrown logging roads. With the price of gas, I see less and less jacked up wide tire gas gobblers though.

[Dogman]

A taller tire does have it's advantages. Tundra owners sometimes replace their 70 series tires with 75's but after that you reach a point of diminishing returns as I have explained in earlier posts.

To me, "serious offroading" means day to day use in ranching, hunting etc. as opposed to city boys who spend countless hours of idolatry polishing their jacked up idols and take them out once a month for "fun". I use 4WD daily due to steep terrain or snow and thousands of miles a year on rough logging roads. I plow over 2 miles of steep narrow driveway in the winter with my 3/4 ton truck and put over a thousand miles a year on ATV's. Kids from a nearby city bring out their jacked up modifieds to play but they're too wide and pretty for overgrown logging roads. With the price of gas, I see less and less jacked up wide tire gas gobblers though. I would always be amused to see these city road warriors with their trucks candied up as you describe, riding around trying to impress everyone.

Most would have drop dead heart attacks if they got even a tiny scratch on their rides.

Hell, a truck is not a truck unless it is dinged up some, and in some cases the more the better it is. In my opinion a truck with out dings lacks character. My first 4x4 the day I got it , I was out in the arroyo's muddling and playing in the Monahans sandhills dunes out in west tx.

Sorry Z for the slight derail.


Edit: There were lot's of fun places to go in big bend state park also. Roads? I need no stinking roads!

[skid]

I'm not out of piss yet, bubba. The limiting factor in clearance is the differential, steering arms, shock mounts and parking brake cables. This is where Tundras really shine.
I had an F250 with 33x12.5 tires ages ago. The parking brake cables got torn off, steering arm bent twice and got stuck many times. All that junk was mounted low. If you put tires on that are 3" taller, you only gain 1 1/2" clearance and it ain't worth it for all the mods you have to do.
A stock Tundra has 11.9" of clearance, which is way more than my old F250 had with 33's and a 2" lift. Piss away.

A lift helps prevent getting hung up on the frame/transfer case when crawling over obstacles or in deep mud. Larger diameter tires add clearance under the diffs. I don't care for tires much wider than stock, just larger diameter. A serious off roader like yourself should know that. Freespirit also mentioned that the greater articulation allows the wheels to stay in contact and get traction longer on frame twisters/ditches/etc.

I have to laugh if you think a stock Tundra is a good off roader. I drive a 2012 with the "TRD offroad suspension" as a company truck and the four wheel drive/traction control system is a joke. Get into anything serious, and the lack of a locking differential and the computer cutting engine power/applying the brakes to the spinning tire when you spin the tires means you get stuck regularly. I regularly hit the front skid plate under the bumper so I don't know why you think they have great clearance. I use four wheel drive daily as well, especially with the Tundra. The small gas tank is a joke too on such a gas sucking pig with the 5.7 engine.

The best 4 wheeler I had was a 72 Blazer with a 4" lift, 33" mud terrains, locker in the rear, limited slip in the front. Light, nimble, hardly ever got stuck, and I hung with some serious 4x4s (mostly lifted jeeps). Unlike the Jeeps, I could actually carry some gear too:)

[zap]

Went to the big town about a hour away took the part with me to Nissian, nope its a after market part so its part of the lift kit I guess and the shop that did the lift isn't open on Sat or Sun....... Bastards, so I left the part with a good friend and he will go there on Monday and get one or get one ordered for me. then I will change the shocks out, align the front end and anything else that is the matter with the sob.

[EE_]

I would have a new tab welded on it...maybe a heavier material.

[LuckyStrike]

Also from a Tundra driver, get a different truck if you want to do any serious off roading. The Tundra is a slug off road, and the traction control is simply abysmal...

Name a new halfton that is better offroad?

I've driven them all but a Dodge, and the Tundra is as good or better than all of them. A lot of times when it comes to driving offroad it is down to driver and not necessarily vehicle. I have several friends who say the Tundra will be their next truck based on what they have seen mine do.

I will add though that the Bilstein 5100's and A/T are a must if you are going to do off roading.

As for traction control, you turn it off if you need to so that is no big deal. Also when my truck is in 4wd all 4 spin, I've seen many 4wd trucks were only 2 wheels end up spinning at a given time.

[milehi]

I didn't know you could turn off the traction control in Toyotas. I can't in my current gen Tacoma. I can in my full time four wheel drive sedan. It cuts fuel to the motor as soon as it senses a wheel slip. Not good when pulling away uphill on a sheet of ice, even with snow tires. It's the first button I hit as soon as I fire her up. Fair or foul weather.

[LuckyStrike]

I didn't know you could turn off the traction control in Toyotas.

I don't know if you can in all Toyotas, just Tundras.

[skid]

I can't shut the traction control completely off in my Tundra. It still tries to screw things up even when off (cutting power to the engine, applying brakes to spinning wheels). Try getting into some mud or deep wet snow where the only way to get through it is to nail the throttle and spin the wheels. The Tundra sputters and farts and generally makes a fool of itself:)
Another beef I have with the Tundra traction control is when in 2 wheel drive and trying to pass a car. If the truck hits a small bump and the computer notices any wheel slippage (which is fairy easy in a 400hp truck in two wheel drive even at 50mph) it cuts the power for 2-3 seconds. Just great when you have a few seconds to pass on a small straight part of the road. The Toyota would be a much better truck if they just put a limited slip in the back. It's not like they can't do it as Toyota Land Cruisers used to have lockers front and rear.
BTW I have driven the Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 with the Hemi (I rented one for a few days before leasing the Toyota). That is a sweet truck. Unlike the Toyota you can power slide that thing like crazy as it actually has a limited slip in the back. I didn't get it as a company truck as there is no Dodge dealer in my small town. I'd probably lose my license too as it is a rocket...

[LuckyStrike]

I can't shut the traction control completely off in my Tundra.

Dude you would seriously think that you would do your homework or perhaps ask around if this problem bothered you so much......

http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=46c2cc94ba3715b7ac1a8fc1eafe5ef3&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tundratalk.net%2Fforums%2Ftun dra-general-discussion%2F101731-frickin-nannies.html&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tundrasolutions.com%2Fforums% 2Fattachments%2Ftundra%2F56191d1289244550-what-are-nannies-how-deal-them-tundra-vsc-2.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tundratalk.net%2Fforums%2Ftun dra-general-discussion%2F101731-frickin-nannies-2.html
2012 Tundra

PDF:http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docum...df/sec_2-4.pdf (http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=46c2cc94ba3715b7ac1a8fc1eafe5ef3&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tundratalk.net%2Fforums%2Ftun dra-general-discussion%2F100992-tundra-traction-control-button-year-model.html&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota.com%2Ft3Portal%2Fdocum ent%2Fom%2FOM34525U%2Fpdf%2Fsec_2-4.pdf&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tundratalk.net%2Fforums%2Ftun dra-general-discussion%2F101731-frickin-nannies.html)

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/attachments/tundra-general-discussion/14571d1322088651-tundra-traction-control-button-year-model-2012.png


OMG traction control is killing these guys :rolleyes:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XFXWV7aCFM&feature=related

(Mute this one)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqXlBzUp0_Q&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Fp2oyHdDyk&feature=related

(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Fp2oyHdDyk&feature=related)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H81qWZ9OCaI&feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gRU6kYWJKc&NR=1&feature=endscreen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huH1n_jdZsM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gRU6kYWJKc&NR=1&feature=endscreen)

[skid]

What a joke. Push and hold for three seconds, push again for 2 seconds while holding your tongue just right and snapping your fingers just to get the traction control to work. Every time I want to get unstuck I have to pull the owners manual out to figure out the traction control? Why not put a limited slip? Also with the traction control disabled you lose the braking function that gives you traction on the tire with the most traction by applying the brakes to the spinning wheel? My 2012 is also different than the 1 page chart of traction control options and explanations (one page!). I can't disable it...

[LuckyStrike]

BTW I have driven the Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 with the Hemi

BTW, the Tundra motor is a hemi too. BFD.

[LuckyStrike]

I can't disable it...

OK would you like to put money on it?

And yeah in all those videos I posted slinging mud and burning rubber, totally destroying your arguments it looks like they got in and out of mud fine........

Let me put it to you this way, I've got almost 170,000 miles on my 2010 which is quite a few hours behind the wheel, in fact it's the highest mileage 2010 on the planet, so I know what that truck can and can't do. How many miles have you put on yours?

[skid]

Another thing I don't like about the Tundra is that you can't shift into first gear unless you are almost stopped. Going down a steep logging road and you can't gear down to use engine braking unless you almost stop...

[skid]

BTW, the Tundra motor is a hemi too. BFD.

The only reason I mentioned Hemi is that it is the top performance option on the Dodge and makes a little more power than the Toyota in a lighter truck. And it is actually fun to drive without all the performance sucking nannies that the Toyota has (depowering on on full throttle upshifts, bumps, wheel slippage, etc.).

There is a lot to like about the Toyota and that is why I tried it. The heavy duty rear diff with the big ring gear (and unfortunately no locking differential option although the aftermarket can supply one now), jewel like engine, six speed tranny, etc. are all reasons why I leased one. However it could be a much better truck for the reasons I mentioned earlier. Last I read no one yet offers reprogramming options for the Tundra computer. Would void the warranty anyways...

[LuckyStrike]

The only reason I mentioned Hemi is that it is the top performance option on the Dodge and makes a little more power than the Toyota in a lighter truck. And it is actually fun to drive without all the performance sucking nannies that the Toyota has (depowering on on full throttle upshifts, bumps, wheel slippage, etc.).

There is a lot to like about the Toyota and that is why I tried it. The heavy duty rear diff with the big ring gear (and unfortunately no locking differential option although the aftermarket can supply one now), jewel like engine, six speed tranny, etc. are all reasons why I leased one. However it could be a much better truck for the reasons I mentioned earlier. Last I read no one yet offers reprogramming options for the Tundra computer. Would void the warranty anyways...

I understand your complaints and the nannies are a PITA, however you CAN turn them off and the problem is solved.

Granted I don't live in the mountains but I've never seen anyone for any reason shift into first gear to engine brake.

From what I heard last week from a guy whose dad owns a transmission shop he said the 1/2 ton Dodge trannies are shit, plus I've yet to see a truck like mine get 18.9 mpg (city/hwy) Before my front lift and 33's I got 17/18 mpg every fillup, this is with having several hundred pounds of gear in the truck. I don't know of any near 400hp half ton that even comes close to that. (Again granted I live in Fl so the roads are flat and it's nearly sea level)

But as I said name one 2012 half ton that is overall better than the Tundra? Having seen Ford and GM build quality over the span of hundred of thousands of miles they honestly do not compare to the Toyota. All of those trucks have good points, but I'm talking overall.

[Dogman]

I understand your complaints and the nannies are a PITA, however you CAN turn them off and the problem is solved.

Granted I don't live in the mountains but I've never seen anyone for any reason shift into first gear to engine brake.

From what I heard last week from a guy whose dad owns a transmission shop he said the 1/2 ton Dodge trannies are shit, plus I've yet to see a truck like mine get 18.9 mpg (city/hwy) Before my front lift and 33's I got 17/18 mpg every fillup, this is with having several hundred pounds of gear in the truck. I don't know of any near 400hp half ton that even comes close to that. (Again granted I live in Fl so the roads are flat and it's nearly sea level)

But as I said name one 2012 half ton that is overall better than the Tundra? Having seen Ford and GM build quality over the span of hundred of thousands of miles they honestly do not compare to the Toyota. All of those trucks have good points, but I'm talking overall.

Engine braking in first gear is a must! It helps keeps your speed down and help with control on very steep hills and such. If not you are putting more wear than necessary on the brakes and limits speed when the foot is off the brake it helps for speed control, most cases you are going less that 10mph and are creeping along. If you are off road and crawling on mountains/ steep hills/ arroyos and such. Most cases 2nd gear is way to fast.

Edit: Talking about creeping along at angles sometimes way past 45 degrees. Need seat belt just to keep you in the seat going down hill. Also sometimes used on mountain highways at a higher gear to save brakes, even big trucks use engine braking to keep from running away..

[skid]

With the Tundra you can shift into second at 60 mph and it revs up to almost 5000rpm. They don't allow the same shift into first as it may lock up the rear tires on wet pavement. The product liability lawyers probably dictated that one especially after the run away Toyotas they had a few years ago when they first went with drive by wire...

Regarding mileage, I don't think I get anywhere near 17/18. However, I like to drive fairly hard on the sparsely travelled twisty roads I frequent, and the Toyota is a lot of fun to put your foot into on the road.

[skid]

OK would you like to put money on it?

And yeah in all those videos I posted slinging mud and burning rubber, totally destroying your arguments it looks like they got in and out of mud fine........

Let me put it to you this way, I've got almost 170,000 miles on my 2010 which is quite a few hours behind the wheel, in fact it's the highest mileage 2010 on the planet, so I know what that truck can and can't do. How many miles have you put on yours?

Lucky, you were right and I was wrong. I was able to disable the traction control and the stability control by following the chart that you posted with the explanations. I don't know why the owners manual couldn't have done the same thing instead of rambling on about traction control for 10 pages without really explaining how to disable it. Probably for product liability reasons...

The first thing I will do once I start the truck every day will be to turn that crap (traction control/stability control) off:)

[LuckyStrike]

Lucky, you were right and I was wrong. I was able to disable the traction control and the stability control by following the chart that you posted with the explanations. I don't know why the owners manual couldn't have done the same thing instead of rambling on about traction control for 10 pages without really explaining how to disable it. Probably for product liability reasons...

The first thing I will do once I start the truck every day will be to turn that crap (traction control/stability control) off:)

It's def the most annoying thing on this truck, but at least you can turn it off. Also I downshifted into 1st at 20mph, not sure at what speed it won't let you do it but 20mph seemed fast to me.