Chainsaw Questions - Stihl vs. Husqvarna vs. Tanaka vs. Poulan

[gunDriller]

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/

http://www.amazon.com/Tanaka-TCS33EB-16-2-Stroke-Compliant/product-reviews/B003B6AWGM

I've been looking at Chainsaws.

I've been coached by some of the guys at the Y. They say, "Stihl or Husqvarna."


At a local store that sells Tanaka, they are big on ... WAIT CAN YOU GUESS ... Tanaka !


I was surprised to read some of the reviews at Amazon, about one of their electric chainsaws.

Mostly positive, though one reader made a good observation - one of the primary gears in the electric chainsaw they were talking about is ... {BARF} ... Plastic.


And, my property is kind of long (2000 feet). Got 13 acres of firewood. So I definitely need a gas chainsaw.


AND ==> I'm very concerned about safety.

One of the guys at the Y has a great story. He was cutting something wood, at about eye level (5 feet off the ground), and it had some metal something in it.

His chainsaw took off, and ended up slicing off his bicep.

Which his wife dutifully repaired, and now the guy is back to being superfit, for a middle-aged guy.


I'm also hearing stories about chainsaws catching and 'running'. One guy had a story about a co-worker for whom the chainsaw bounced up and into his nose.


Question #1
* Which brand of chainsaw ?

Question #2
* What size of chainsaw ?

I have used up all my "small wood", wood up to 4 inches diameter than I can cut in the bandsaw.

So now, all my dry wood is 8" to 10" diameter - that's what I will be cutting, in the short term. I was thinking a 16" Chainsaw.

In the long run, I might be cutting bigger logs up the hillside.


This is a picture of the rack I designed to hold logs -

http://s403998394.onlinehome.us/log-rack-JPG2.jpg

The top of the log is about 33" off the ground. I was trying to build it low, so that when the saw cuts through the log ... well, it just seemed better.


Question #3
* How important are safety devices like Kevlar chaps and a helmet ?

Question #4
* What other question(s) should I be asking ?

[BabushkaLady]

Get a Stihl, you won't regret it! At least a 026 if they still make that model. Every other chainsaw ends up getting sold to eventually buy a better one. Might as well start with the best. (nothing wrong with Huskys, but there sure are a lot of Stihl dealers to help with any problems.)

Forget about a helmet and chaps--you'll end up never wearing them. Gloves and safety glasses are your best bet after some good practice with an experienced cutter.

Good Luck!

[Neuro]

I don't know much about chainsaws, but the stonemason/carpenter who built my stone house at my bug out land, asked me to buy him a Husqvarna chainsaw, when I went to Sweden, to replace his old Husqvarna chainsaw. I checked prices on the Internet, and I found that the model he wanted was cheaper to buy in Turkey, than in Sweden. I told him about it and he said that the ones in Turkey are made in Brazil, and they are not the same quality as the Swedish made ones. So I told that I would be looking for a Swedish made model when I was in Sweden, and luckily I did find the model he wanted. It was one of the bigger engines, and they were discontinuing the Swedish production of this particular model, mainly because they didn't sell many of them in Sweden, I guess because Swedish trees in commercial forestry generally are less than 20" in diameter...

So if you buy a Husqvarna, you should check that it says "made in Sweden" on it, but don't expect that the more powerful models are made in Sweden.

The first thing he did when he got the chainsaw was to check that it had the "made in Sweden" engraving, and he had a big grin on his face, after that, I gave it to him as a present, he built me a house that will stand for a 1000 years, perhaps...

[Libertarian_Guard]

A 30 in. bow saw and a pair of gloves works for better than 80 percent of my tree trimming. That said, even the cheap poulan has worked well for me.

[gunDriller]

i just got back from the Stihl dealer.

looks like i'll be getting the Stihl 16", Model #170. $180. The 16" Tanaka is $130.

nothing against Husqvarna, i just haven't found a Husqvarna dealer yet.


i spent an hour getting a pre-purchase lesson from the guy, just explaining what all the stuff is, how to start it. he was pretty experienced, been using a saw about 40 years.


i believe both of you, Bubushka Lady and the guy at the store. not sure what to get, maybe take it a step at a time.

he talked about the chain coming loose and whipping around, talking about safety issues - and the possible need for the Kevlar chaps. but maybe he was just trying to play on my safety fears - and to sell stuff.


the one question i didn't get answered ... occurred to me on the way home - what kind of chainsaw did they use in the movie "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" ?

i've actually never seen it, but - i couldn't help but wonder.

[horseshoe3]

I have a Husqvarna helmet with the screen for face protection. I never used goggles because they fog up. The screen never fogs up so I use it all the time.

[hoarder]

I went thru several short-lived Poulans. Then I got a usedHusquvarna 455 and an old Stihl 041. Can't seem to destroy either one and the chain speed is much faster. Echo is worthy of mention for smaller chainsaws like the one-handed "arborist" type.

[ArgenteumTelum]

I'm a certified tree farmer in the American Tree Farm System. I have put a Stihl 026 through an incredible amount of work and it runs like a champ.
Learn how to sharpen a chain. Learn how to sharpen a chain. Learn how to sharpen a chain and keep it adjusted properly.
This is your best defense against accidents. Yes...Kevlar chaps and a helmet with integrated face screen and earmuffs.
Plan your moves and have no distractions. You'll be fine.

[gunDriller]

i talked to a lady at Home Depot today. she knows her chain-saw, in the past their family had a logging business.

she agreed with Babushka Lady, said that she had never heard of a chain coming apart - the reason the guy at the Stihl store cited for needing the chaps.


she did say that her husband and sons occasionally are cutting a log and hit a piece of wire. for example, the tree is next to a wire fence, grows 'around' the fence. when the tree is cut down, it's got metal wire in it.

so that's something to keep an eye out for.

in my case, i have a big face shield thing, like for welding but not shaded. i always fog up safety goggles.

i already have the ear-muffs, in case i feel a need for them, and ear-plugs.


as long as i am cutting in a controlled situation (on the log stand, log hanging off the end so it doesn't pinch, top of the log about 3 feet off the ground) i think i'll be OK (knock on wood :) ).

she also said that sometimes it works better to cut the log from the bottom (until it cuts far enough for it to pinch), because of the direction the blade is moving. she said she finds it's just more comfortable to cut part of the log from the bottom.


anyway, thanks everybody for the input :)

i will try & stay super-safe !


and Merry Christmas, it's Christmas Eve Eve !

[horseshoe3]

I have had a couple of chains break, because I ran them until they were too long, shortened them and then ran them until the link wore thin and broke. I've had the chain come off the bar plenty of times. Usually that is my fault too for trying to cut just a little bit more before tightening the chain. But sometimes you can do everything right and the chain will come off usually from getting caught in small green brush that gets between the bar and the chain and throws it. In any case, I've never had it result in anything worse than torn jeans.

The worst accident I've ever had was because I wasn't paying attention. I had just made a cut and was stepping over some brush to postion myself for the next cut. I raised my left thigh into the chain. Fortunatly, I had released the trigger and the chain was not under power. It still put a pretty good gash in my thing though. PAY ATTENTION.

Also, wear ear protection. It doesn't matter if you can stand the pain. Hearing loss is not a matter of toughness. I wish I could go back and tell myself that 20 years ago.

[hoarder]

I have had a couple of chains break, because I ran them until they were too long, shortened them and then ran them until the link wore thin and broke. I've had the chain come off the bar plenty of times. Usually that is my fault too for trying to cut just a little bit more before tightening the chain.

Chain stretch is not much of a problem now that most saws have sprocket tips in the bars.

[LuckyStrike]

Like operating any tools/machinery that can kill you, just pay attention to what you're doing, don't get in a rush. The higher end chainsaws are definitely more expensive but like anything you get what you pay for, I'm about to buy a Husqvarna myself, just haven't decided which model. It is going to replace/compliment an old Husqvarna that still runs fine but was neglected and needs maintenance (bar and chain not engine)

[gunDriller]

I have had a couple of chains break, because I ran them until they were too long, shortened them and then ran them until the link wore thin and broke. I've had the chain come off the bar plenty of times. Usually that is my fault too for trying to cut just a little bit more before tightening the chain. But sometimes you can do everything right and the chain will come off usually from getting caught in small green brush that gets between the bar and the chain and throws it. In any case, I've never had it result in anything worse than torn jeans.

The worst accident I've ever had was because I wasn't paying attention. I had just made a cut and was stepping over some brush to postion myself for the next cut. I raised my left thigh into the chain. Fortunatly, I had released the trigger and the chain was not under power. It still put a pretty good gash in my thing though. PAY ATTENTION.

Also, wear ear protection. It doesn't matter if you can stand the pain. Hearing loss is not a matter of toughness. I wish I could go back and tell myself that 20 years ago.


i like 'sports' where you have to pay attention for every second of every minute.

for example, swimming in the ocean when the waves are big.

i had a similar experience driving a stake bed truck that was 2000 pounds over GVWR, i later found out. came around one corner on a mountain pass about 10 o'clock at night, and there was some pickup with a trailer on the shoulder - about 2 feet into the right hand lane.

just changed lanes and kept going. at 60 mph, it was quickly a memory.


i tell myself that i can operate the chain saw safely.

but i still make mistakes. i was sharpening my Scythe (for cutting long-grass) and it's like the damn thing jumped out and bit me !

just cut myself. to figure out exactly how i would have needed to videotape myself.


i could videotape myself using the chainsaw, but i would want it to be REALLY BORING.

in order to maintain my decent safety record & continue outwitting Mr. Murphy (as in Murphy's Law) i may need to get the chaps.

[skid]

Looks like I'm a little late to this thread, but here's my 02.

Buy Stihl or Husky, no other. If you buy Stihl, get the professional models that are made in Germany. They're bullet proof. Get a model with enough power to run a minimum 24 inch bar. That way you don't have to bend down to cut logs on the ground which saves the back. Make sure you get a sharpening set with a file sized for your chain. I normally sharpen my chain before I use it unless I know for sure it is still sharp.

Don't bother with saw horses, you don't need them and you'll break your back lifting logs onto them. Saw 3/4 through a log on the ground. Keep going the length of the log with these 3/4 through cuts. Then roll the log with your foot and cut the other 1/4's.

Mark your saw from the tip to the handle to match the length of wood your stove will take. Lay the saw on the log and take note where to cut.

Fill the chain lube reservoir everytime you gas up and tighten the chain which only takes a few seconds. When the chain gets dull, sharpen it right away.

I have a Stihl 660 which is a fairly big saw (actually second biggest in the line up). It's definately not for girls, but makes short work of most anything. I use Stilh pre mix as it also has a fuel stabilizer in it so you can leave your saw with gas in it for a few months. I also use Stilh chain lube and have had no chain troubles.

I cut 8 cords a year minimum along with clearing land of very large trees. I always wear kevlar chaps, steel toed cork boots with steel spikes (so you don't slip on wet bark or wood), and a hard hat with eye screen and ear muffs (Husky and Stihl both sell them). Chaps aren't only for broken chains, they're for when you slip or similar to prevent you from cutting your leg off. I had a saw slip and cut right through the material on my steel toed boots right down to the steel. Didn't even notice it until I went to take my boot off. I live in logging country and most everyone else around here gears up similarly.

[milehi]

I tore into the material wearing chaps once. The moist ground gave way on a slope while cutting into a slash pile. I'd instictively let go of the the trigger once my heel slipped more than I was comfortable with, but the chain was stihl traveling fast enough to have dug at least a half inch deep trough from my left knee's lateral condyle, across to my groin (Magnum 440). Dress for the crash.

Look for a Stihl Farm Boss if you're just clearing the back 40. I see them on craigslist often.

[steyr_m]

I don't know much about chainsaws, but the stonemason/carpenter who built my stone house at my bug out land,

There's bug-out land in Turkey?

[CrufflerJJ]

After throwing out a Poulan saw that had lasted for about a year, I bought my Stihl MS250 back in 2003. It runs OK when I finally get it going, but floods nearly every time I try to start it (even following the manual's starting instructions to the letter).

This flooding problem is apparently common with the MS250 (see http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/176212.htm ). It's a pain to have to remove the air cleaner, spark plug, dry things out, reassemble, then FINALLY get to cutting wood.

Poor design/function, despite the Stihl nameplate.

[Neuro]

There's bug-out land in Turkey?
LOL, everything is relative I guess, primary plan is to go to Sweden, if/when middle east great war/ww3 begins, but we have this place, that is far away from any beaten tracks, with very little population around, that is fairly self sufficient (farming/logging/herding/hunting), which also religiously are very moderate, if for some reason first option isn't available to us.

In the event western society collapses (financial collapse seems most likely), we can go to this place and do farming for sustenance. If nothing happens I plan on making a vineyard on the land and produce Turkeys best wine, as I retire...

[gunDriller]

in the short term, i bought a replacement saw blade for my "bow saw".

cost - $6.29.

it does a great job cutting wood cross wise.

now i'm looking for something to split the wood. e.g. a maul.

[LuckyStrike]

I got a husqvarna 455 rancher, looks like it's made in Sweden and seems to be a good chainsaw for my needs.

[Neuro]

in the short term, i bought a replacement saw blade for my "bow saw".

cost - $6.29.

it does a great job cutting wood cross wise.

now i'm looking for something to split the wood. e.g. a maul.
Plenty of advantages, to that solution, apart from the cost, the bow saw always works, no need for expensive and complicated maintenance, it is much safer, you get strengthening exercise, runs without need for fuel, no toxic emissions, better sound profile, SHTF proof, lesser proportion of the wood is wasted as sawdust, just to mention a few of the benefits...

[Mouse]

yeah and you can spend a month to put up the wood you need for the year. I would keep something like that around (I do), but nobody beats a properly maintained chainsaw. I do 5-6 cords a year for myself, plus help neighbors with theirs, and I am NOT doing it manually, if I can in any way avoid it. I use a 290 and a 170 (stihl), a 22 ton splitter and a 1.25 ton 4*4 pickup and it's still a back breaking crap chore. Then you get to stack it.

It's good enough exercise when you have good tools and fuel for them.

[skid]

yeah and you can spend a month to put up the wood you need for the year. I would keep something like that around (I do), but nobody beats a properly maintained chainsaw. I do 5-6 cords a year for myself, plus help neighbors with theirs, and I am NOT doing it manually, if I can in any way avoid it. I use a 290 and a 170 (stihl), a 22 ton splitter and a 1.25 ton 4*4 pickup and it's still a back breaking crap chore. Then you get to stack it.

It's good enough exercise when you have good tools and fuel for them.

A chain saw is one of the most labor saving devices invented. I'm not saying I don't have a few bow saws, but until the SHTF they'll stay in the shed when I'm cutting firewood...

[Neuro]

yeah and you can spend a month to put up the wood you need for the year. I would keep something like that around (I do), but nobody beats a properly maintained chainsaw. I do 5-6 cords a year for myself, plus help neighbors with theirs, and I am NOT doing it manually, if I can in any way avoid it. I use a 290 and a 170 (stihl), a 22 ton splitter and a 1.25 ton 4*4 pickup and it's still a back breaking crap chore. Then you get to stack it.

It's good enough exercise when you have good tools and fuel for them.
Pussy!

I bought my firewood cut and split, it was still hard work stacking it in the woodshed, took me a week doing a few hours a day... Boohooo... ;D

[Serpo]

Its out of Husqvarna or stihl basically , I have always used a husky , stihls are normally a bit heavier.

Both are equally as good.........

Ive got at least 12 to 15 years of firewood. Australian box gum which wont rot away.