Lithium-Ion Battery Inventor Introduces New Technology for Batteries

[Ares]

Lithium-Ion Battery Inventor Introduces New Technology for Fast-Charging, Noncombustible Batteries

AUSTIN, Texas — A team of engineers led by 94-year-old John Goodenough, professor in the Cockrell School of Engineering at The University of Texas at Austin and co-inventor of the lithium-ion battery, has developed the first all-solid-state battery cells that could lead to safer, faster-charging, longer-lasting rechargeable batteries for handheld mobile devices, electric cars and stationary energy storage.

Goodenough’s latest breakthrough, completed with Cockrell School senior research fellow Maria Helena Braga, is a low-cost all-solid-state battery that is noncombustible and has a long cycle life (battery life) with a high volumetric energy density and fast rates of charge and discharge. The engineers describe their new technology in a recent paper published in the journal Energy & Environmental Science.

“Cost, safety, energy density, rates of charge and discharge and cycle life are critical for battery-driven cars to be more widely adopted. We believe our discovery solves many of the problems that are inherent in today’s batteries,” Goodenough said.

The researchers demonstrated that their new battery cells have at least three times as much energy density as today’s lithium-ion batteries. A battery cell’s energy density gives an electric vehicle its driving range, so a higher energy density means that a car can drive more miles between charges. The UT Austin battery formulation also allows for a greater number of charging and discharging cycles, which equates to longer-lasting batteries, as well as a faster rate of recharge (minutes rather than hours).

Today’s lithium-ion batteries use liquid electrolytes to transport the lithium ions between the anode (the negative side of the battery) and the cathode (the positive side of the battery). If a battery cell is charged too quickly, it can cause dendrites or “metal whiskers” to form and cross through the liquid electrolytes, causing a short circuit that can lead to explosions and fires. Instead of liquid electrolytes, the researchers rely on glass electrolytes that enable the use of an alkali-metal anode without the formation of dendrites.

The use of an alkali-metal anode (lithium, sodium or potassium) — which isn’t possible with conventional batteries — increases the energy density of a cathode and delivers a long cycle life. In experiments, the researchers’ cells have demonstrated more than 1,200 cycles with low cell resistance.

Additionally, because the solid-glass electrolytes can operate, or have high conductivity, at -20 degrees Celsius, this type of battery in a car could perform well in subzero degree weather. This is the first all-solid-state battery cell that can operate under 60 degree Celsius.

Braga began developing solid-glass electrolytes with colleagues while she was at the University of Porto in Portugal. About two years ago, she began collaborating with Goodenough and researcher Andrew J. Murchison at UT Austin. Braga said that Goodenough brought an understanding of the composition and properties of the solid-glass electrolytes that resulted in a new version of the electrolytes that is now patented through the UT Austin Office of Technology Commercialization.

The engineers’ glass electrolytes allow them to plate and strip alkali metals on both the cathode and the anode side without dendrites, which simplifies battery cell fabrication.

Another advantage is that the battery cells can be made from earth-friendly materials.

“The glass electrolytes allow for the substitution of low-cost sodium for lithium. Sodium is extracted from seawater that is widely available,” Braga said.

Goodenough and Braga are continuing to advance their battery-related research and are working on several patents. In the short term, they hope to work with battery makers to develop and test their new materials in electric vehicles and energy storage devices.

https://news.utexas.edu/2017/02/28/goodenough-introduces-new-battery-technology

[Down1]

The more battery advances the better.

Thinking of going with some battery lawn tools this year.

[Ares]

The more battery advances the better.

Thinking of going with some battery lawn tools this year.

I thought about that too, but still prefer the power of gasoline. Especially for a lawnmower. :)

[Bigjon]

I want a capacitor as a battery.

https://www.youtube.com/user/RobertMurraySmith/videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFDSoWj37pc

[Glass]

I want a capacitor as a battery.

https://www.youtube.com/user/RobertMurraySmith/videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFDSoWj37pc

Capacitors have the same issues as batteries do in terms of charge induced "explosions" although capacitors might have better environmental heat stability than batteries. I wonder how they compare in very cold climates.

Is there really enough torque in electric motors suitable for lawn mowers and line trimmers etc yet? We're seen good torque in vehicles but it comes with a significant weight penalty. All the electric garden stuff I tried was very weak even mains connected stuff. admit it's been a long time since I used any.

[madfranks]

The researchers demonstrated that their new battery cells have at least three times as much energy density as today’s lithium-ion batteries.Nice. I'd like to not have to charge my phone every single night.

[madfranks]

I thought about that too, but still prefer the power of gasoline. Especially for a lawnmower. :)

No kidding! Last summer I traded my weak-ass electric weed whacker for a gas powered model, and the gas powered one is much better.

[Ares]

No kidding! Last summer I traded my weak-ass electric weed whacker for a gas powered model, and the gas powered one is much better.

Back when I lived in Indiana I used my neighbors weed whacker to do some edging around the drive way (he had the correct attachment, I didn't at the time). It didn't even make it a quarter of the way before the battery died and didn't even do that great of a job. I got an edging attachment for my gas powered weed whacker and problem solved. The gas powered one worked without an issue and didn't even act like it had that much of a load on it. The battery powered one strained to do the edging.

[woodman]

Is there really enough torque in electric motors suitable for lawn mowers and line trimmers etc yet? We're seen good torque in vehicles but it comes with a significant weight penalty. All the electric garden stuff I tried was very weak even mains connected stuff. admit it's been a long time since I used any.

The battery powered tools have come a long way. Ryobi has a new battery powered riding lawn mower that I am thinking about getting. My battery powered Ryobi trimmer is awesome. I can use it around the farm and don't need to replace the battery at all if fully charged.

I have an electric golf cart that has awesome power and pick-up. Zero to full speed in a flash. The electric stuff is quiet, low maintenance and very trouble free.

[crimethink]

The more battery advances the better.

There are downsides to ever more powerful batteries. Eventually, "anomalies" and accidents will result in the equivalent of detonating a chunk of C-4 inside your home...or even pocket. Lithium batteries, particularly, larger Li-Po packs, already border on bomb-like when they go boom.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz3hCqjk4yc


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BGtUxR_2xE

[Down1]

So many of these accidents are caused by user though.
As an e-cig user battery safety is a priority.

Proper charger must be used for one.

On to the Lawn Equipment. There is so much stuff out there now it is incredible.
Tons of 18/20, 36/40, 56/60, 80 volt tools out there to inspect.
DeWalt is now out with Flex Volt.

[woodman]

So many of these accidents are caused by user though.
As an e-cig user battery safety is a priority.

Proper charger must be used for one.

On to the Lawn Equipment. There is so much stuff out there now it is incredible.
Tons of 18/20, 36/40, 56/60, 80 volt tools out there to inspect.
DeWalt is now out with Flex Volt.

I love battery power tools. We install gym floors with battery powered circular saws and miterboxes. They (Dewalt) even have a battery powered table saw that looks mighty appealing. I do remember back in the mid Eighties, my boss on a rough carpentry crew showed up with a battery powered Makita drill gun and we all laughed at him. Well, it actually was worth using. The first battery powered tool that I saw to be worthwhile on a job. We have come a long way since then.

I have Makita 18v and some 36 volt tools (they take two 18V batteries), Dewalt 18v, Ryobi 18V, and 12V Bosch and Miwaukee. All are good tools. The Ryobi 18 V are superb for the money. They are cheaper, both in price and quality than the others, but make up for it in useability. The Ryobi batteries have a fuel gauge on them and also a gang charger that hold up to eight batteries. In my opinion if you are going to have anything at all, have a set of Ryobi. They are well worth it. We've used the shit out of our Ryobi tools over the years and almost everything is still working. The circular saws have hit the scrapheap but they are fairly cheap and oh so handy.

[monty]

I built a steel frame house with a 12V Dewalt drill. It is all screws except the trim around the windows. Even the hardwood floor is put down with screews

https://s19.postimg.org/wrerwe883/IMG_1544.jpg
Mine is on a footing with steel floor joists.


https://s19.postimg.org/g2dc0hbmr/IMG_0304.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/3z80cx0kj/IMG_0202.jpg

[Glass]

Cordless drills are one thing, but circular saws, lawnmowers, line trimmers etc need plenty of twist. I've got a ryobi drill somewhere. It's a 14.4V I think. Was gifted to me but was no good out of the box. Wasn't even able to get through drilling a single hole in wood so I shelved it. Battery charger either never seemed to finish charing or the indicator light was a mains power is available light and not a charging indicator. Figured I would rebuild the battery packs one day and see if that helped.. but in Australia you have to import anything useful yourself.... making it a thing of principle over cost effectiveness..... e.g. repair it on principle or bin it and buy another one.

[Jerrylynnb]

Glass asks:

"Is there really enough torque in electric motors suitable for lawn mowers and line trimmers etc yet?"

Yes. But not in a battery powered trimmer, but one that requires a 12 gauge extension cord (up to 100 feet). The power is more than large enough to beat any 2-cycle trimmer I have ever seen.

Plus it is lighter in weight than one with a 2-cycle motor. But, and this is what makes me DREAD having to go trim, that doggone cord keeps getting tangled up around me because I get focused on the weeds and turning this way and that way and, the next thing I know, the cord is all wrapped up around me and I have to stop and take time to straighten out the chord again. But if you will just pay attention to your cord, it is really a lot better than a 2-cycle weed eater.

Also, I have TWO electric chain saws that work off that same 100 foot 12 gauge extension cord, and, they are all as powerful as any other chain saw I have ever used (I ain't never been around the really big ones).

I have several makita and craftsman drills and circular saws and they hold the charge just fine, unless I am going to be doing a whole lot of work - then I have to use the corded one.

With electric, you never have to worry about gasoline engines, and THAT is a wonderful blessing.

[vacuum]

Maybe if you had a house with a small yard in a subdivision these battery powered lawn tools would be ok, but I wouldn't go battery powered law tools for more than that.

[Jewboo]

I've got a ryobi drill somewhere. It's a 14.4V I think. Was gifted to me but was no good out of the box. Wasn't even able to get through drilling a single hole in wood so I shelved it.



$24 Solution (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CM7746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that works for me.

:D

[crimethink]

$24 Solution (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CM7746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that works for me.

:D


Battery type: NI-CD

You're buying another soon enough...

[monty]

I built a steel frame house with a 12V Dewalt drill. It is all screws except the trim around the windows. Even the hardwood floor is put down with screews

https://s19.postimg.org/wrerwe883/IMG_1544.jpg
Mine is on a footing with steel floor joists.


https://s19.postimg.org/g2dc0hbmr/IMG_0304.jpg


https://s19.postimg.org/3z80cx0kj/IMG_0202.jpg

woodman, I am refinishing the hardwood floors, 3/4 x 2 1/4 white oak . I want to put a clear finish, no stain. What do you suggest for sealer and finish? I used Valspar spar urethane originally, in 2005.

[woodman]

woodman, I am refinishing the hardwood floors, 3/4 x 2 1/4 white oak . I want to put a clear finish, no stain. What do you suggest for sealer and finish? I used Valspar spar urethane originally, in 2005.
Well Monty, I think you are looking for a natural look. White oak is beautiful wood and the only way to get that natural, light look, is to use a water base. Water base is a very hard finish. Water base will not yellow, or amber(only minimally) and it will keep the wood light and brilliant. My favorite look on oak is to stain it and use an oil base which I prefer over a water base for many reasons but it darkens and ambers the wood. Water base is the only easily used finish (for the do it yourselfer) that will yield a light, non ambered look. I understand there are some acrylic finishes that are used but I have not used them. If you have fluctuations in ambient moisture during the seasons, you want to use water base finish when the floor is in it's driest state. Water base tends to panelize boards which means they will dry out during the dry periods and stick together in a group and leave an extraordinarily wide gap between groups of 4 or 5 boards and it is very difficult to impossible to correct once it happens. It looks bad. If you don't anticipate a large moisture differential from season to season, then it is not an issue. I just figured I'd mention it. Some water based sealers claim that they will negate panelization (edge bonding) but I have found this to be untrue. Don't worry about using water base poly, but make sure you apply it to wood that will not be drying out any more than it already is.

This said, you may like the look of ambered white oak and if you do, then I would definitely put an oil base poly on it. Oil base stretches and moves with the wood and is durable in it's own right.

[monty]

Well Monty, I think you are looking for a natural look. White oak is beautiful wood and the only way to get that natural, light look, is to use a water base. Water base is a very hard finish. Water base will not yellow, or amber(only minimally) and it will keep the wood light and brilliant. My favorite look on oak is to stain it and use an oil base which I prefer over a water base for many reasons but it darkens and ambers the wood. Water base is the only easily used finish (for the do it yourselfer) that will yield a light, non ambered look. I understand there are some acrylic finishes that are used but I have not used them. If you have fluctuations in ambient moisture during the seasons, you want to use water base finish when the floor is in it's driest state. Water base tends to panelize boards which means they will dry out during the dry periods and stick together in a group and leave an extraordinarily wide gap between groups of 4 or 5 boards and it is very difficult to impossible to correct once it happens. It looks bad. If you don't anticipate a large moisture differential from season to season, then it is not an issue. I just figured I'd mention it. Some water based sealers claim that they will negate panelization (edge bonding) but I have found this to be untrue. Don't worry about using water base poly, but make sure you apply it to wood that will not be drying out any more than it already is.

This said, you may like the look of ambered white oak and if you do, then I would definitely put an oil base poly on it. Oil base stretches and moves with the wood and is durable in it's own right.

Thanks. I don't mind the amberizing. The original finish is about 15 years old and hasn't darkened too much for my taste.

What you say about waterbase and what I have read I am going to stick an oil base.
L