OT Plywood question

[woodman]

Funny shit reading the reviews on about everything I ordered. The flooring OSB requires 1/8 spacing for expansion and contraction. WTF I'm not building a fucking boat! Might be the waxy shit the use to make it? I don't know. The shit's out side spaced to degass right now.

Pulled the rest of the deck off. Wow. They had some sort of water protection sheet that did not work at all, total fail. I wish I could get pics here cause you would love it. The rot is beyond rot, No Idea how I am going to get a new sill plate in here, and 12 foot long ain't gonna do the job lol. More likely I need another 4 foot to finish this area.. Going to beat up my phone tomorrow cause my camera died also, this needs to be pictured for sure.

You should see the shit I am dealing with right now. I bought a property across the street from me. It finally went up for sale and after 15 years of putting up with barking dogs, rap music, drug traffic and burning garbage, I figured I would buy it before some one else did. Well those mobile homes are complete junk. They use the press board on all the floors and the stuff turns to shit as soon as it gets wet. I am trying to get one of the mobiles ready for a renter and it is a project for sure. I will be patching the roof today if the weather allows.

[hoarder]

This is true. I've noticed a drop in plywood quality over the last 7 years. I have been retired since last year but still do odd jobs. The actual size of the sheets has been off for the last 4 years at least. I would make a big difference when a sheet was an eighth inch smaller, say 47 7/8" instead of 48" when lining up plywood on a subfloor. The thickness can vary quite a bit also. Much of the 15/32 was often more like 3/8 and we would try to use it by a wall, under the bleachers, etc. This product was coming in big orders, often over a thousand sheets from Home Depot. We figured they were having a hard time getting good help, large employee turnover or something.

I had the carpenters put 5/8" CDX (whatever they call it now) on the roof so there would be a little more "meat" for the metal roof screws to get a hold of. I noticed the 5/8' was much better quality than the 1/2". Most people put 7/16 OSB under metal and if a screw backs out (as they sometimes do from expansion/contraction of the sheet metal)and that spot swells.

[Cebu_4_2]

I am assuming a crawl space. You will need a couple bottle jacks and blocks on each end of a temporary beam to keep the joists up while you replace the sill plate. If it is that bad, you may need to replace the rim joist and sister some scabs on the joist ends. A project for sure but doable.

Finished basement syndrome. I can get to a lot of it except where the stairs are in the corner. Basement is block so the sill sits on that.

[midnight rambler]

if a screw backs out

The fasteners migrate back out because cheapskates use #8 screws. #14 screws don't migrate back out. And screw down sheet metal panels over wood are strictly for ag and storage type buildings anyway (which can be open 1x4 lathe), standing seam with unexposed fasteners is what should be going onto houses.

[hoarder]

The fasteners migrate back out because cheapskates use #8 screws. #14 screws don't migrate back out. And screw down sheet metal panels over wood are strictly for ag and storage type buildings anyway (which can be open 1x4 lathe), standing seam with unexposed fasteners is what should be going onto houses.

Screwmetal roofs are the most common roofs in my area. No doubt standing seam is better, but very few are rich enough to pay 3 times as much to not have screws. Any time you have roofing screws going in wood, that will be the eventual failure point, as well as the rubber washer. Commercial building usually have them screwed into zees, which lasts longer. Some people use the small screws in wood, then 20 years later, as the washers begin to fail, pull them out and replace them with the wide flange screws.

[midnight rambler]

Screwmetal roofs are the most common roofs in my area. No doubt standing seam is better, but very few are rich enough to pay 3 times as much to not have screws. Any time you have roofing screws going in wood, that will be the eventual failure point, as well as the rubber washer. Commercial building usually have them screwed into zees, which lasts longer. Some people use the small screws in wood, then 20 years later, as the washers begin to fail, pull them out and replace them with the wide flange screws.

Even on the #8 screws the washers don't fail (to the point of causing rotten wood) until 25-30 years so long as they don't migrate out. #14 screws will have the washers last in excess of 30 years when screwed into wood at the appropriate torque. The failure of #8 weatherguard style screws is strictly due to migrating back out as a result of live load and thermal expansion/contraction THEN "the washers fail." In actuality the washers don't really fail nearly as much as the screws migrate out, the most common cause of a fastener leaking is the result of the fastener backing out - if not a result of a poor installation job where the fastener was not seated square to the panel, which can fail on either a wood or metal substrate in such a case. Pre-engineered sheet metal buildings have a metal substrate in the form of a C purlin or Z purlin framing. Fasteners screwed into metal never back out with only the very rare exception. Washer failure on fasteners on pre-engineered buildings are extremely rare except at the eave strut. Most PE sheet metal buildings have a higher elevation at the eave strut likely from the placement of the batt insulation which results in there being a very small deflected area in the panel precisely where the fasteners attach to the eave strut. This small deflected area results in a small pond from the slightest drizzle since all the water on the roof ends up at the eave. There's a very simple solution to that: replace the fastener with the appropriate fastener, preferably the 'long life' fastener for PE sheet metal roofs. Even on wood substrate the fasteners fail at the eave far more than any other area because that's where all the water ends up. On metal substrate (PE buildings) it generally isn't a fastener failure causing leaks, it's something else like headlaps or penetrations.

[Cebu_4_2]

Hmm, not only can I not figure out how to get pics from my android phone to my PC but to attach them they have to be 'hosted' somewhere.

Fucking ghey.

[Cebu_4_2]

Wont display so linky to gallery: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mgbnywse/

Unable to jack anything up from the window to the left (possible half way in the window), all joists cut out for stairs so that's going to have to stay. The rest should be jackable from inside with little issue. Not sure how bad the joists are at the end. A lot more rot than I thought, sills and end joist plus possible joist ends themselves.

Way above my pay scale but with little working capital I can get a 12 ton bottle jack and some 4x4s. How do I pull as much of the sill and end joist if I can't jack up the whole thing? Not worried about cracking drywall lol, that's pretty jacked already just wondering how high it should have to go to accomplish anything significant. I really doubt there are any type of anchor bolts so possibly just cut and slide the sill out.

Edit: Better wording I guess, How to I keep the whole area jacked up? Jack a few joists at a time and shove a 4x4 from the floor under the 4x4 holding the house up? Buy a bunch of bottle jacks? Just found 3 stantions that I can de-rust and maybe make functional. Watched some videos but not real similar to what I am dealing with here.

measuring from the inside in some areas it seems like the end joist is doubled up and in others it's all a f*cking hack job that makes little sense. I'm done guessing what went through some backwards ass country f*cks mind when building / repairing stuff around here. My 24x24 garage has a stantion holding the rafters up smack dab in the middle of the door so you can't even pull a car in there. Cant remove that thing at all lol. That's where all the short pieces come together. Same with the attic in this house but they built walls to hold the loose ends up. Crazy shit for sure.

[woodman]

Wont display so linky to gallery: https://postimg.cc/gallery/2mgbnywse/

Unable to jack anything up from the window to the left (possible half way in the window), all joists cut out for stairs so that's going to have to stay. The rest should be jackable from inside with little issue. Not sure how bad the joists are at the end. A lot more rot than I thought, sills and end joist plus possible joist ends themselves.

Way above my pay scale but with little working capital I can get a 12 ton bottle jack and some 4x4s. How do I pull as much of the sill and end joist if I can't jack up the whole thing? Not worried about cracking drywall lol, that's pretty jacked already just wondering how high it should have to go to accomplish anything significant. I really doubt there are any type of anchor bolts so possibly just cut and slide the sill out.

Edit: Better wording I guess, How to I keep the whole area jacked up? Jack a few joists at a time and shove a 4x4 from the floor under the 4x4 holding the house up? Buy a bunch of bottle jacks? Just found 3 stantions that I can de-rust and maybe make functional. Watched some videos but not real similar to what I am dealing with here.

measuring from the inside in some areas it seems like the end joist is doubled up and in others it's all a f*cking hack job that makes little sense. I'm done guessing what went through some backwards ass country f*cks mind when building / repairing stuff around here. My 24x24 garage has a stantion holding the rafters up smack dab in the middle of the door so you can't even pull a car in there. Cant remove that thing at all lol. That's where all the short pieces come together. Same with the attic in this house but they built walls to hold the loose ends up. Crazy shit for sure.

You can do this Cebu. Get a couple of stantionjacks and a laminated beam or screw together some 2 x 12's. What is the length of the rotted area? If it is less than 10 feet then a couple of stantions should do it. If more then you will need a third. Get a helper and screw the beam to the underside of the joists, then jack everything up slowly. Slowly! I am assuming there is some sag present. Cut that sill plate out and make sure the rim joist is removed also, as far as that rot and termite damage extends.

[Cebu_4_2]

You can do this Cebu. Get a couple of stantionjacks and a laminated beam or screw together some 2 x 12's. What is the length of the rotted area? If it is less than 10 feet then a couple of stantions should do it. If more then you will need a third. Get a helper and screw the beam to the underside of the joists, then jack everything up slowly. Slowly! I am assuming there is some sag present. Cut that sill plate out and make sure the rim joist is removed also, as far as that rot and termite damage extends.

Thanks very much. Going to get a bottle jack and hopefully a couple 4x4s and see what damage I can do. Got birds flying in now almost everyday. Will concentrate on working the stantions free for support after the jack. Absolutely no children will be inside the house during this lol.

Whoa wait! 2x12s? Rotted area at least 16-18 feet but cant lift it all. Maybe 12-14 foot of the rotted area can be lifted. I can go farther on the non rotted stuff but not sure if mandatory. Wont 2x12s be wobbly if jacked up even screwed? Don't want no crashing down. Thanks for your patience on my lack of knowledge.